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Re: Can i also use it to make Digital IC ?

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In Reply to: Re: Andrew Heliax Coaxial cable posted by wgallupe on February 22, 2007 at 17:52:19:

Thanks for your kind reply.
It is very good information for me..... i am using the PMC FB1 speaker which exactly has a metal-dome tweeter which i have found sometimes does exhibit a teezzzy/eeeek'ing harsh characteristic , especially noticeable with trumpets and/or violins when in the high notes. Also , this speaker is a transmission line , so your observations of "extended bass" and other's observations about "tight bass" does point to a good synergy/match.
Nice to hear that it has "a black background that allows me to hear separation between individual notes" .... who doesn't crave to hear all detail and resolution. :-) I think that "black background" has to do with the corrugated copper tube shield. Am using the Monica2 non-oversampling DAC (from DIYParadise.com) which has a low level output (direct from the TDA1545 DAC i/c) .... make me think that this cable would be ideal here with best shielding of the "delicate" signal from external noise pickup.

Can i also use it to make Digital Interconnect ?

Thanks !

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Re: Can i also use it to make Digital IC ? Yes but.... - wgallupe 13:29:37 02/24/07 (2)
You need to use the 75 ohm version for digital. In that same system when I had aluminum tweeters I was also using an outboard DAC and separate jitter filter. So I ran an 18 inch run from CDP to jitter filter and another 18 inch run to the outboard DAC. Same sound charactoristics as the analog (50 ohm) versons.
I agree that the copper tube shielding contributes to the quite background.
If you decide to try Heliax cable, search the cable asylum for tips on how to cut and terminate it. You'll probably find some of my posts but I learned from others here who tried it before me. One other thing. The best RCA connectors turned out to be the older WBT (0147 with bushings that are sold separately) or the Vampire LRC8. They provide the necessary strain relief.
Good luck with any DIY you may venture into...
- Re: Can i also use it to make Digital IC ? Yes but.... - SteveLim 17:52:06 02/26/07 (1)
  Thanks so much for your kind support.
  Regarding the point i read about that Andrew Heliax cable takes a long time (3weeks)to burn-in, and that when the cable is re-positioned and bent, it becomes "unsettled" and needs some burn-in again. Have concerns about that since i fiddle with my equipment and setup quite often.
  From your experience , just really how sensitive is the cable to becoming "unsettled" again each time it has been handled/bent ?
  Does the sound takes a huge big step back and how much time (typical) needed to burn-in again ?
  I am thinking of soldering the cable directly into my DIY DAC, straight to my output coupling capacitors on the printed-circuit-board (i.e. minimise cinch connections and soldering points ; to keep the signal path as simple/pure/direct as possible). Have not yet seen the cable physically and how stiff it is , so wondering how i should solder it. Could i have your opinion ?
  Thanks.
  - Re: Can i also use it to make Digital IC ? Yes but.... - wgallupe 14:37:47 02/28/07 (0)
    After you first build the cables it can take 2-3 weeks to break in. During that period there can be some wide swings (brite/dull) in the upper frequencies.
    They are somewhat stiff. After all the shield is a copper tube. But, it is thin wall and easily bends to the shape you desire. It will hold that shape until you decide to re-shape.
    If you re-shape them they may change (but not always). It will be subtle and they will return to post break-in within a day or two.
    Soldering direct to reduce joints is always a good idea. The challenge with Heliax is the provide very good strain relief. Otherwise, the solder joint at the copper shield will break.
    I would use WBT 0147 RCAs or Vampire LRC8 RCAs. The Heliax center conductor will fit nicely into the center solder cups of each design. Also, the copper shield can be persuaded (bent) to touch the ground "bars" which allows for a good solder joint there as well. Try to find some internal pics of the two RCAs and you will see what I mean. One more thing, be patient and use plenty of heat on the ground solder joint as the RCAs body sucks up alot of the heat.

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