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curious. expensive. but he swears it huge difference in dynamics and resolution with his Kondo gear.... anyone know about this? thx
Follow Ups:
From a technical standpoint, completely separating the conductors for the + and the - terminals does several things:Pros
1. It decreases the dielectric involvement of the insulation material, which lowers the total capacitance
2. It halves the resistance (if two of the same cables were used, with the + and - conductors paralleled)
3. It greatly reduces the motor/generator issues, as long as the two cable assemblies/conductors used are separated by more than a few inches.Cons
4. Inductance is increased. This may be a signficant increase, over 3X that of a single cable assembly connected normally.
5. The space surrounding the cable becomes a lot more important, and can now adversely affect the cables even more. This would include what the cables were laying on to reach the speakers (carpet, wooden floor, concrete floor, etc.), what they were routed near to (racks, audio component chassis/cases, other wiring, including power cords, IC's, etc.)
6. Doubles the cost (if two of the same cables were used, with the + and - conductors paralleled.RE #4 This can be of consequence if you have low Z speakers, or ones that are highly reactive or demand large amounts of current (electrostatics, etc.). It will probably be of little consequence if you have 16 ohm speakers, or highly efficient speakers like horn speakers.
RE #5 This can be minimized by using cable lifters or risers, and these can be as simple as a foam coffie cup or a paper tube, chopstick or bamboo skewers in a tripod arrangement, etc.
RE #1 To take full advantage of this (lowered dielectric involvement), and to avoid as much of #6 and #4, instead of using one normal cable assembly with it's + and - conductors paralleled as one large conductor for just one polarity of the speaker cable run from amp to speaker, use a single conductor or single conductor assembly for each polarity.
To minimize #4, use a braided set of smaller single conductor insulated wires.
Obviously, this is one of those classic trade-offs, trading capacitance for inductance, halving resistance for a 'doubling' of cost, etc.
It is different, not necessarily better, or the best, or the worst.
Very much system dependant as well.Personally for me and most of the systems I have dealt with, twisting the two conductors together (or using a low inductance geometry), rather than separating them far apart, works better overall.
Jon Risch
But I don't know I'd swear by it. It just so happens to work well in my particular application with this particular speaker cable (Home Depot HD-14).As with most things, I think it depends on the system and cables used.
The speaker cables are individual conductors that are not mechanically fastened.
my gear isn't hi-end, but for years i had indiv runs of anti-cables.just recently i twisted them together and lots of good things have
happened, the presentation is smoother.i think its system dependent...sounds as if my amp runs differently with the cable runs twisted.
I am using separate runs for + and - to my speakers with great results. It is silver Audio Consulting wire. Some argue that spacing the conductors will cause high frequency roll off (increases inductance). That hasn't been my experience.
I have employed it in the past via Acarian Systems LTD. Black Orpheus speaker cables with my Alon speakers. One could buy a Bi-wire or Tri-wire harness depending on speaker model with each run being seperate.The Tri-wire harness had 6 cables for each speaker!
Yes, the Black Orpheus cables had merit and was definately better than using the supplied Vampire wire jumpers if a single run was used. One of those merits was a very "open" sound but I obtained a more synergystic match overall with MIT2 Bi-wire cables on my Alon speakers.
Since cables are VERY system dependant, it would be misleading to preach that seperate wire runs for each driver is the holy grail.
Cheers,
Hukk
Is not each + and - terminal connected to the corresponding + and - to each X-over/driver assuming there are seperate paths to each driver?U would be correct if say the midrange and tweeter were configured as one circuit, x-over included.
Cheers,
I thought the original post was about a regular pair of speakers with only one + and one - post on the back.I could be wrong but I thought the question was, what if you buy 4 speaker cables instead of 2. Put the + AND the - from one cable TOGETHER onto the speaker's + jack, then do the same on the power amp's + jack for that channel. Etc.
Whether or not it is bi-wire or bi-amp is not the point here. Kenster is still talking about separate runs for + and - as he eludes to by saying there was 6 cables for a tri-wire set up.
nt
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