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I have heard many times that one should create a strong mechanical connection when soldering.But how do you do this with an RCA jack? Is there some trick?
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I have been making interconnects for years now, and thought maybe there was some secret trick that I hadn't figured out.Good to know I have been doing it ok.
There are some RCA connectors that allow you to solder to a ground lug, but then make the connection to the shell (outer electrode) through a mechanical crimp. Look carefully at the connectors you are using to be sure they do not have this design. An additional solder joint between the lug and shell electrode is required, but difficult to make.Plugging the male connector into a dummy female connector helps for sinking heat when soldering to the male connector center pin. This helps to avoid melting the insulation.
Hey Al,Thanks for these tips.
Who makes the RCas you are talking about...I have never seen ones like that to my knowledge.
Back in the day, I had a defunct boom box that i would plug the RCas into to be soldered. Now I use one of those heat sincs for soldering, but I do miss the boom box, so perhaps I can recreate it.
though I think they are a nice rca
Thanks for showing me this, even though it confuses me more.I guess I would have to actually see one.
Anyhow, the ones I have are conceptually like these:
http://www.wbtusa.com/wbt0144.html
there simply is no place for the negative conductor.
Most rca's are like that. I just solder the return to the left edge of the barrel so that the return and signal conductors or the same length. Be careful not to get solder on the outside of the barrel as it may affect the fit of the collar.I use a hakko iron at 775F and for me I found it much harder to get a nice joint if I sink the barrel. If you use Q-dope it will keep the joint protected.
Everyone has their own way to solder, but the way I learned how to terminate RCA plugs is by tinning the lead, then heating up the RCA plug's solder point while simultaneously heating the cable lead and applying a very small amount of solder (use a non-sputtering solder).RCA solder-point terminations are high stress points. Make you do a good job in connecting it. When plugged in, the cable hangs off the back end of your components and can put a lot of strain on that solder point. Most RCA plug manufacturers have some type of strain relief or clamping mechanism (either with a screw or a crimp) that clamps the RCA plug housing to the outside of the IC jacket. This alleviates strain on the solder point.
Tinker around with it and let us know how it goes. Post pics too!
You're dead-on, a good mechanical connection is preferred, but with an RCA jack (aside from those that have set-screws), that's not possible to do.The trick is to get the metal of the RCA connector hot enough so that the solder flows evenly over it when soldering the conducting wire.
The mechanical connection, if you will, that keeps the RCA on the end is the strain-releif at the end of the barrel. That connection is, as you can guess, pretty important to the integrity of the cable. That's one reason so many cables have glue-backed heat shrink that covers the jacket and the barrel of the RCA connector.
"That's one reason so many cables have glue-backed heat shrink that covers the jacket and the barrel of the RCA connector."grailer makes a good point as it is a great idea to heatshrink a lot of the rca plug, especially if it has a metal/conductive body. When connected to your components, you do not want the L/R shorting out. Heatshrink can help you here too.
One thing I do to all my cables if take a special glue, and surround the base of the stripped wire lead, then heatshrink the base of the stripped off lead using 3:1 heatshrink. This creates an air-tight connection (if done properly!) and works quite effectively to delay oxidation of the copper conductor at the termination point. You may use a "contact enhancer" such as Furutech's product if you are inclined. Personally I use an oxide compound which further protects the conductor from oxidation.
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