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In Reply to: Furutech FP-15 duplexes cannot be split posted by Glen B on December 25, 2006 at 18:09:33:
I was having trouble splitting off the new Furu, so decided to let that go. Makes no sense, though, as it's clearly configured for separating the outlets if desired. So what does one do?Actually, I'm not so sure that Furutech is the only one with larger more difficult breakoffs, as that's what I found with my P&S duplexes too, not that tiny flimsy one you're showing.
Follow Ups:
device could be wire so one half could be hot all the time and the other half could be switched.
It's a strong piece of metal surrounded by plastic. If you use a screwdriver to lever it out - and that ain't easy - you damage the plastic because you have to press really hard.
Did you look at the picture included with my post above ? I revised it to include an enlargement of the contact area. Breaking off the "link" is a moot point because the two halves will still be in one piece.
I recall some of the P&S being that deep into the innards, not just that little tab on the outside you pictured for that other brand outlet. It did break off all the way down, with much effort though. So I assumed you could do same eventually with the Furutech.Why in the world would they construct it with the usual standard breakoff tab if they didn't intend for you to be able to do so? Makes no sense to me. Plus they have the 2 sets of screws, one per outlet. So this must be breakable in some reasonable fashion.
The primary purpose of duplex outlets having two sets of terminal screws per side is for extending branch circuits/daisy chaining. The incoming hot and neutral wires go to one set of terminals and a second pair of wires continue on to the next outlet.
Not to break the damn things by trying to break off those pieces, but I would expect that it does prevent that soupcon of separation. Ah well....
The robust metal makes star wiring unnecessary.
I had the idea that the star wiring was specifically to permit that last 6" (assuming pigtailed leads) of separation between the outlets, at least in the case of our audiophile uses, to further separate analog from digital if possible.The electricians may actually wire to separate hot/neutral lines if I read the boxes correctly, though why they would do so is a mystery to me.
Many houses lack ceiling light fixtures in every room. To make it possible to control a table or floor lamp from a wall switch, and still have a convenience outlet that is always on, the electricians will break the tabs on standard outlets and wire one outlet with an always-on circuit, and the other one with a circuit fed from the wall switch.The breakaway tabs on standard outlets are small and heavily scored. This can cause degradation for audio components fed through the tabs, so I recommend star wiring to these outlets. The Furutech outlets have robust metal in place of the tabs, so the star wiring is unnecessary. It requires an additional connection, so it may be worse than wiring directly to one pair of screws on the outlet.
The few inches of separation from star wiring will not give significant isolation in the case where all the audio is fed from the same outlet.
If I'm reading you right on this, Al - "The few inches of separation from star wiring will not give significant isolation in the case where all the audio is fed from the same outlet" - then star wiring is only useful or even beneficial if the breakaways and connectors are NOT robust. Is that correct? That holds for power strips as well then?
The daisy-chain method introduces lots of extra joints for some of the outlets.
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