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In Reply to: Re: about screws posted by bkst140 on November 29, 2006 at 20:59:03:
I have a special way to remove them from the outlets I use, but it won't work with other brands. The screws are self tapping and installed by machine. They have a stop that you have encountered. just continue to back them out. You will need to firmly hold the outlet and use a big screw driver. Good Luck
Follow Ups:
Mike, Thanx to your instruction, I've successfully backed out the screws with a big screw driver. I did it on a Hubbell 5252 which appeared to be whole brass with exception of neutral nickel screws. But guess what I've just discovered, the inner contact plate which was not visible before I removed the screws, is apparently nickel. I wanted to make sure it's made of brass so I used a small magnet-tipped screw driver to stick inside the screw hole to see if the inner plate would be attracted to the magnet.Bad news! The plate sticks up to my magnet-tipped screw driver, that means it's made of steel! Steel is said to be the worst signal conductor for audio and now I wonder if changing the screws would do any good. This makes me curious about all the rest of outlets out there including Hubbell 5262, 5362, P&S 5262A, 5362A. Are these so called full-brass outlets have no steel equipped whatsoever? Has anyone checked on this before?
Yes, most of the backing plates are made from steel.
the 5262 Hubbell I have is all brass but they might have changed to steel. P&S did with screws on a bunch of their spec grade outlets. I can only guess that the cost of brass has become a factor.
I checked Hubbell's spec sheet. Model 5252 does have clamp plate listed as made of steel. That's a real pity since all other parts are made of brass. The 5262's clamp plate is shown as made of brass and since all manufacturers have jacked up their prices already, I don't see how it's proper for Hubbell to alter the specs for their products. It looks like Hubbell 5262 is full-brass afterall. Which makes it perhaps the best buy outlet available. Thanx Mike.
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