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I know this question has been asked a bunch of times, but I have been reading through this forum for hours now, and feel like I am really confused now. But I have a couple of questions about DYI cables. I am very interested in using the 89259 to build ic's for all of my equipment. But, the price might be too step for this. I was planing on using Canare LV77S cable, but it seems the Belden is much better. What other Belden cable do you recommend if I cannot swing the cash for the 89259? Also, do you recommend the crimp Canare RCAP-C3F or the Dayton plugs (WTB clones) from Parts express? I do not mind soldering and I just want the best plug possible. Thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions. I have been reading through the forum for hours trying to make the best decision, but then just decided to get your expert opinion, so I don't screw up and waste my money.
Follow Ups:
This wire is excellent and well reviewed by gurus such as Jon Risch, but it's a little hard to work with.
The inner pair has a loose twist and are insulated with Teflon, as is the tinned copper braid shield on the outer layer. This gives you the option of shielding the cable or not. This wire is rather stiff and getting the length right avoids stress on the plugs. Get strain reliefs if possible. The outer jacket is fairly strong, allowing you to clamp down with setscrews in a convincing manner.As with all IC constructions, don't skimp out on the plugs. I recommend Eichmann Bullets. They would be a good match for this cable as they can accept fairly thick cables, have setscrews, and and generally good sounding plugs. This would also give you a 100% copper signal carrier from tip to tip. From here, the only way up is to go pure silver.
Hi Dan,The Belden isn't that pricey at $2.82/ft from at least one online e-tailer (http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/audio_video_bulk.html#89259).
Don't skimp on the cable.
The Canare RCAs are decent, as are the Daytons. Honestly, Homegrown Audio's RCAs are pretty good too. See the link below.
It was only $1/ft 2 years ago or so. Glad a bought a 100 ft spool when I did.
Thanks for the reply. If I only need a few feet of the 89259, it wouldn't be too expensive. But I need to do several ic's and need around 200', and money is tight right now. Is the 89259 copper or silver?
200'?! That's some IC!Yes, it's gotten pricier - ALL copper has gotten more expensive in the past year. 200' even at $1/ft is still $200.
Yeah, I have around 20 interconnects to make up, with a few of them around 10', between my HT and stereo tube pre. I think I am going to go with the Cardas GMRO (GRMO?) connectors, but might go with the Copper Bullet Plugs. I am interested in trying the twisted pair (89259/1506a) IC's for my CD player and IC from my phono pre to the pre-amp. I am nervous about it since I haven't seen any pictures listed online with the construction details. I get the concept, but I am a little confused about the spacers or teflon tubing and the 8661 braid. I am a visual person, so I would feel much more comfortable after I saw some pictures of the construction process. You wouldn't know where I might be able to see any pictures of the twisted pair cables?
I don't have any detailed pictures (I built my own systems cables long ago, and haven't needed to build some for a while) but there are some detailed descriptions, see:Assembly of stock coax, and twisted pairs:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/messages/91526.html
Assembly of twisted pair:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/messages/99543.html
Assembly of balanced twisted pair:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/messages/109148.html
Latest post:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/messages/113781.htmlas well as the original description in the DIY note at:
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/i1.htmFeel free to ask any questions, but I do ask that you at least read through the descriptions before starting to ask questions.
Jon,
Do you recommend a twisted pair of 89259/1695a or 89259/1506a for analog IC's? Also, the teflon tubing just runs along each side of the cable, or does it get twisted around the cable? Finally, with the added braid, you just connect it to the source end, so for example, if I hooked up the IC between my CD player and Pre-amp, then I would use the soldered shield braid end in the CD player, correct?Thanks again for all of your help!
Jon,I've been thinking about your ICs for at least a year. Now have all the components and am in the process of building a short "throw away" version for practice. I'm using 89259 twisted with 1506A and will use shielding.
Just got back from Lowe's and paid $2.37 for 18" of 5/32" Teflon rope. My question is whether I need to make continuous runs of it the full length of my IC? Since there are two cores twisted together, there needs to be one length of Teflon rope spacer on each side of the twist or double the finished length. Would the properties of the IC be compromised by using segments of rope? I will be doing the mummy wrap with Teflon plumber's tape over the above combination and then adding the shield.
For best results, use the teflon 'rope', it will affect the sound if any other material is used, including cotton rope.BTW, instead of making a "throw-away" set with the good materials, use some cheap polyethylene wires, and some cheap RS plugs, and some cheap 60/40 RS solder and small cotton rope. If you can put those together, and make good solder joints, etc., THEN tackle the real materials using 63/37 Kester or equiv., and you will have a good pair of cables for the long haul.
Either way, be SURE to check for continuuity of the ground and the hot, so you do not damage your ystem when trying them out for the first time.
Also, put a little (reasonable) stress on the ends BEFORE installation and continuity check, make sure the ground connection is not going to 'pop loose', and cause massive hum, etc.
Then realize on hi rez systems, they will probably need to break-in a while before reaching full potential.
Thank you, Jon. My system is all tubes. One system is Bottlehead and the other Don Allen / Welborne. I've used Welborne 2% silver solder for my Bottlehead and Welborne kits. Should I use the 67/37 Kester for the ICs instead?Thanks for your time.
Gary
I recommend Kester 63/37, with the 44 flux, this solder is hard to beat both sonically and for good sloder joints every time. But the Wellbourne is a good solder, and if you are used to using it, you should be able to make a good joint, the 2% silver solders can be a little peckish to work with, even with all the right tools and temperatures.However, if you can pick up a small quantity of the Kester 63/37 with the 44 flux, try it and see what you think. Kester also makes a silver solder, a 62/37/2 alloy, with the 44 flux, and this is also an excellent solder, just a bit harder to work with, as already noted.
Jon Risch
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Vinyl and Film Forever
Jon,
Thank you for the response. I will carefully read through those posts you noted. As for connectors, which do you prefer, the Cardas GRMO or the Eishmann Gold Bullet Plugs?
Those are both fine plugs, and if you can deal with the eccentricities of the Eichmann, in my opinion, it is the better of these two.However, the Cardas SLVR is a different matter, and would be better compared to the silver Eichmann.
I would say that the Cardas plugs have more of the "old school" RCA plug sound, a sort of warm and mellow overall tonality, while the Eichmann's have that lean and clean sound, but can also seem relentless or too detailed on some systems.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Would you say that the Cardas SLVR is better than Eichmann Bullet Plugs, or just a little different sounding?
Just a little different sounding, not clearly superior.
Thanks!
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