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Hello,I just picked up the "Little Pinkie" power supply for my XCans v3 headphone amp as made by Pink Floyd--X-cans modification master of Scotland. www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-ccessories.html This uses a c7 IEC Have about 60 hours on it so far and am using a VH Audio Flavor 2 routed through an Ice Cube 3-pin to 2-pin adapter. I am almost sure something is being lost, or the Flavor 2 is too warm? (just added Furutech plugs which seems to help). I am wondering about usage of a Cardas Twinlink w/ c7 (Teflon dielectric and shielding) or the Oyaide c7 power cord (not a Teflon dielectric) or an Audioquest power cord with C7. This would be directly into the power supply, no adapter in the way.
I am also curious as to whether a regular high-current-capable power cord like the Flavor 2 can "overwhelm" a small component like this power supply. Is it safer in the long run to go to one of the "little guys" like the Twinlink or Oyaide and how much does shielding and/or dielectric affect/cramp dynamics in an amp--even if it's small like the Xcans?? I realize this is micro-management, but I am trying to use the last of my audio budget carefully.
Follow Ups:
I just checked out a picture of the PS Audio. When you enlarge the picture, it clearly shows the cable has both male and female connections, which means I was in error a moment ago when I described it. Just wanted to clear up that much.
For whatever it is worth, I haven't seen anything that leads me to believe the Cardas and Audioquest cords are exact substitutes. The Cardas comes only with a polarized connector (and, not that I have seen so much equipment, I can't say I have seen a component that requires one, although obviously Cardas has some particular applications in mind when marketing the cord). The only Audioquest C7's I have seen have been the more typical unpolarized connector so can be used with the usual DVDs and music servers that take C7's. (The PS Audio also looks unpolarized in the pictures I have seen.) So, from what I have been able to gather, you'd have to choose either the Cardsas or the Audioquest. However, Riffer's post suggests there might be versions of either that I have not seen if he or she has been able to compare the two products.
You just have to use a continuity checker or multimeter & battery and you can determine which way the C7 should go in a polarized inlet. Not that it really matters.The polarized cord is primarily used with DVD's. Digital Boxes, Plasmas, etc.
I tried a couple you listed. The Cardas is actually a very nice upgrade. It has the standard signature sound of increased warmth. I also have a pair of AudioQuest C7 cables...I hate them...right now they are sitting up in the closet. Don't rule out PS Audio. I am using that cable currently. It has a little warmer sound compared to the Cardas. To me it almost sounds like a rubber cord which boosts low frequencies, but you would have to ask Paul for the specifics. Either cable manufacture is a good pick.
I have tried the Audioquest and Cardas, and didn't notice any difference. I have some better quality generic C7 cords that were just as good.What I am looking for is a DIY C7 IEC. I would much rather make my own cables with some Belden powercord.
Dumb question, but do you have a earth ground for your circuit. The Cardas cable has a dual shield (aluminum foil and braided copper) and that alone changes the sound of the cable after the magnetic field sets up. I'm not trying to suggest anything, but I found a huge tonal difference between the AQ and Cardas cable....and the Cardas wins hands down.As for a C7 IEC you're out of luck. I have seen C8 plugs that allow hard wiring, but I forget where I saw them....it's been a while. To save yourself a headache you might want to try modifing the stock cable. Most C7 cables are standard lamp cord that can be split down the middle. If not, Radio Shack sells cables to match my description for a couple bucks. What you do is split the cable down the middle and twist the wires every cm along the length of the cable. Place a shield or two over the twisted pair. Ground the shield to the earth ground pin of the ac plug. If you want to take it up another notch wrap the exterior of the cable with Stillpoints ERS. Insulate the ERS using standard PVC electrical tape using a tight wrap. Finsh off the cable as you like :) Due to the design and materials it will probably take the magnetic field a good 60 hours to properly set up....just make sure you leave the component on for that length of time. After that the caps in the power supply choke will maintain the magnetic field in the cable. Choose a darker sounding ac plug for the termination. I would highly suggest a Leviton 5266C if you are in the states....I think Home Depot sells them for under $10. I do this tweak on a lot of cables....I just did one the other day on a Oreck air cleaner....it is plugged into a shared circuit and the twist greatly reduced the noise effecting the stereo system on the same circuit. I suggest you try it for any component (air cleaner, fan, lamps) tha use standard lamp cord.
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