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I own a Audio Research VT 130 which I am driving the panels of Martin Logan Sequel IIs with, I have a Audio Research D400 for the bass in a biamp configuration. I find myself wanting for more definition and impact in the panels I am considering either upgrading the caps etc of the VT130 through Great Northern Sound or possibly switching to one of the following ARC amps VT100 MKII,VT100 MKIII, VT200 or VT200 MKII. Does any one have any words of wisdom for me.
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I had SL3s and a VT100 MkIII and I wanted more impact too. What I wanted was to be able to follow the tunes effortlessly. The VT100 MkIII presented all of the music, and the details and the frequency extremes. But... I wanted the focus of the music - the lead instrument[s] or voice[s] - to really stand out. And I didn't want notes, I wanted tunes.
I've still got the LS25 MkII but now I've got Tannoy TD12s and a BAT VK600SE. And I'm happier than a pig in poo!
Just my opinion, of course.
I'm a Tannoy fan too I had a pair of Berkleys with 15" drivers until a local speaker repairman messed them up putting new surrounds in them and I currently have a pair of Malarcons with 12" drivers I need to refinish the cabinets on. I love the Tannoys they are rockin speakers but the Sequels in my opinion have a magic hard to find elsewhere.
You've got my curiosity going though I think I'm going to pull out the old Tannoys and see how they sound with my current gear it's been a while since I had them hooked up.
The main difference between your rig and mine is that I use a sub, the Muse 18, to get the impact you may be wanting.
I used a VT-100MKII for a couple of years and was very pleased with it driving Acoustat 2+2s until...I heard a pair of VTL Wotans. First of all, I've been an ARC fan for decades and still use one of their preamps. On the other hand, the VTL power amps are to die for. While I'm not suggesting you buy the behemoths, I ended up buying a pair of the similar sounding MB-450s. They were far more musical sounding driving to these ears, especially in the midrange. Bass slam is quite unusual for a tube amp as well. From a practical standpoint, there are bias adjustments for each tube (like the ARC Ref series) that eliminate the need to buy matched quads. Abe Collins wrote the definitive "how to bias a VT100" document and it is not pretty. With a VOM, I can rebias all 16 outputs for the VTLs in fifteen minutes or so.
I have had a VT 200 since 1999 and have enjoyed it tremendously. Unfortunately it has been back twice to Audio Research for repairs - that cost much less than the freight costs.I have kept it because it sounds fantastic. While I have not heard the VT 200 MK2 in my system I spent time with one at the dealer where I bought mine and thought it did not sound as good as the original. More solid state to my taste.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by "solid state" at this point I'll trade off a little warmth for definition and slam.
Your comment pretty much describes the difference, while the MK II seemed to plumb the bass deeper with more definition, the VT 200 being no slouch, I felt the MK II lost a little soul.Note this is my opinion, but to me the original VT 200 was/is more organic. I was told the MK II "upgrade" was mainly done for reliability versus sound improvement. Based on my two failures, blown tubes taking out ancillary parts, this may hold water. ARC fixed quickly and cheaply, main issue is transportation cost.
I had a VT100 mk2 for several years, and recently purchased a VT200, original version. I was always happy with the VT100, and never found anything better in tubes or solid state. BUT, the VT200 is as might be expected, a VT100 mk2 on major steriods. Everything is better. Even bigger soundstage, images even more precise, even more dramatic scaling, and an uncanny sense of distance to the images, which seems very realistic and not exagerated. I am using it with a Ref 3, a great combo.
I have not heard the VT100 mk3, and do not have experience with the most recent ARC amps. I'm sure they are great.
Is there such a thing as a VT200 mkII? Or is the VT200, as you mentioned, a VT100 mkII but bigger and badder, with 8 power tubes per channel?I liked the VT100 mkII that I once owned but man that thing put out some heat!
There is a VT200 mk2, which is similar in tube usage to the VT100 mk3. It uses 6h30's like the mk3.
Yes, both VT200's use 8 6550's per side. They do put out some heat, but they sound good almost immediately.
Although I have not heard the VT100 mkIII, a number of people seem to prefer the mkII (non 6H30) amp. Good to know about the VT200 vs VT200 mkII as well. Thanks.
I have a VT130 as well. Did you do the Infinicap upgrade? If not, I would say save shipping costs, bite the bullet, & DIY install four .68uf V-Cap TFTF teflon caps in the coupling positions, replacing MIT caps above & below the PCB, just to the rear of the input tubes. This will give you everything you're looking for.
Did you do your own? Did you get the parts and instructions from ARC?
I bought the Infinicaps years ago from ARC & installed them myself using directions that I think I still have if you're interested. But the Infinicaps have been surpassed by more recent cap designs & V-Cap TFTF are astonishingly good (and expensive.) You would need to buy them directly from the VH Audio website.
Incidently, with the V-Caps you'll get improved bass authority, precision & dynamics, more transparency, detailed & airy treble, corrections to pitch & timbre, less grain and more suppleness & relaxation. Requires 100-200 hours with full break-in after 400 hrs. If you want more later on, then off to the modder for a full rework. But I doubt you'll need it.
I'm intrigued I'd appreciate any info you could give.
There's not much to it. As per ARC Upgrade Instructions, remove 4 white MIT 1.0uf caps at (C4,5) (top of PCB), and remove 4 white MIT .01uf caps at (C6,7) (bottom of PCB.) The small caps are bypass caps in parallel with the large ones. Solder in 4 .68uf/600V V-Cap TFTF in vacated positions on top of PCB. Face red lead toward input tube and green lead toward power tube. Pad the replacement cap up from the PCB with double-sided cushioning tape from Radio Shack.If you can't afford V-Caps, I suggest Sonicraft Platinum or Mundorf Silver/Gold.
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