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RE: Building a room for my Magnepans

Posted by pictureguy on February 11, 2015 at 10:24:15:
2 main types of design.
'Clean Sheet' where a designer WILL pay attention to room dimensions.
'Retrofit' where you pretty much are dealt a hand and must play it. At that point you are going to work with what you have.

Some rooms are simply too weird for audio purposes. Cubic or 'Regular' with even multiples will be a disaster. Even though you can use room equalization, you fix the good seat, NOT the room.
Starting with a fundamnentally good room helps a LOT.

Also, I've noticed most persons will deal with 'square feet'. saying something like 'my listening room is about 300 square feet' or some such. What is a much better measure of room size is CUBIC capacity. That 300 square foot room could easily be from 2400 CUBIC feet with an 8 foot ceiling to 3300 cubic feet with an 11 foot ceiling. And the properties vary as a result.

My room in my house which I'm FORCED to use has 8 asymmetric walls. The ceiling is 11 1/2' at the peak and 8 1/2' at the long edge while the opposite site varies as low as 8'. The main door to the house is off this room as is the hall to the 'back' of the house AND the kitchen entry AND the entry to my den. My Den was a hoot. When I did my original subwoofer setup my den acted as a helmholtz resonator and had a huge bass peak which rendered listening in that room nearly impossible. The side opposite my Maggies (short wall setup) has a dense woolen tapestry to dampen what WAS an extremely annoying ECHO. The room in that dimension is about 24'.
Total capacity of the room is around 5000 cubic feet. Large and quite irregular.

And yes, account must be taken of ALL THREE main acoustic properties. Reflection / Absorbtion and Diffusion.

Later I'll post a drawing of a staggered stud arrangement which might jog an idea out of you