High Efficiency Speaker Asylum

Need speakers that can rock with just one watt? You found da place.

Use this form to submit comments directly to the Asylum moderators for this forum. We're particularly interested in truly outstanding posts that might be added to our FAQs.
You may also use this form to provide feedback or to call attention to messages that may be in violation of our content rules.

You must login to use this feature.

Inmate Login

By default, logging in will set a session cookie that disappears when you close your browser. Clicking on the 'Remember my Moniker & Password' below will cause a permanent 'Login Cookie' to be set.

Moniker/Username: The Name that you picked or by default, your email. Forgot Moniker?	Examples "Rapper", "Bob W", "joe@aol.com".
Password:	Forgot Password?
	Remember my Moniker & Password ( What's this?)

If you don't have an Asylum Account, you can create one by clicking Here.

Our privacy policy can be reviewed by clicking Here.

Inmate Comments

From:
Your Email:
Subject:

Message Comments

Original Message

RE: Electro-Voice Regal lll

Posted by DaveV on January 7, 2017 at 10:43:25:
If your goal was to change the capacitors, now you have the values.

I'm having a hard time trying to figure out the 5.7 uf for the mid horn but there it is from the factory and EV choose that value for a reason.

When they got more into the bookshelf speaker market they did have different drivers that were not a part of their normal driver offering so it does get confusing unless the full specs of all the drivers are known.

A friend had a pair of EV bookshelves, EV Two's I think and the mid horn looked liked yours but I don't think they were T25's because the output was so low and I think the magnet structure was smaller.

I wouldn't replace the inductors (coils) but that's up to you.
Without a schematic or way to check their values it's not possible anyway.

Don't go nuts trying to find those exact cap values because they probably never were those exact values due to the manufacturing tolerance factor of either plus or minus 10 or 20%.

I found a Clarity ESA cap from Madisound that was close enough to the 2.84 but never had to locate a 5.7uf.

If you parallel two caps they sum, so a 3 and 2.7 would be 5.7. The voltage rating isn't a problem because most of what your going to find today will have a voltage rating that exceeds 50 volts.

If you end up using two caps in parallel to make the needed value, I'd use the same type of cap.

If the speakers sound good to you now, save the old caps because new and better isn't always better sounding. They aren't electrolytic caps so they may be old but not bad.

I find that changing caps can indeed alter the "voicing" of speakers and amps and those old caps can sound pretty darn good compared to some new ones that have better specs on paper but ultimately it's personal sonic preference.

Your not dealing with a high voltage electronic circuit where an old coupling cap is a time bomb in the output section and can damage the output tubes if one fails.

About 6 months ago I hooked up some 1950's EV drivers and their associated crossovers that are 100% original and they sounded fine to me without the urge for "better."

If your going to be working on "vintage speakers" then find a copy of Hi-Fi Loudspeakers and Enclosures by A Cohen. That book taught me a lot back in the day. There's a copy on E-Bay now for $22 and change.

You can get a new speaker design book but it will most likely be dealing with zobel networks, EQ networks,new driver design/technology and other things that don't apply to most speakers before 1968.