Cable Asylum: REVIEW: DIY by Jon Risch CC89259 Cable by Garthman

Model:	CC89259
Category:	Cable
Suggested Retail Price:	$ ridiculously low compared to mf'g
Description:	Unbelievable speaker cable for DIY'ers
Manufacturer URL:	DIY by Jon Risch
Manufacturer URL:	DIY by Jon Risch

Review by Garthman on April 24, 2004 at 04:50:44
IP Address: 67.100.35.66

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My experience with this JR recipe has been a definite positive. Yes, perfect execution of the plans takes time and patience plus planning and many trial runs. First, I used the the wonderful photo plans at Tubeaholic that JR refers to at his site. These photos are clear and will provide the confidence that a DIYer needs. My set was a bi-wired 89259 python and because the first set took so long I decided to use a single set for a couple of weeks with a bare copper wire jumper to my B&W CDM2's tweeters. This resulted in a dramatic improvement over Monster cables (fancy zip wire), OFC 14 guage audiocrap, and other cheaper speaker wires.

I did not know what to expect, but what I did get was a cleaner sound, a real soundstage, tighter bass, greater detail, and a sound that draws you in. Break in took two weeks of steady listening but, the wires reveal themselves as real audiophile equipment after only two hours. When I completed my second set, there was further improvement in just about every category, especially detail and clarity.

Here are my suggestions for construction. Use only polyolefin shrink tubing, and be generous with the teflon plumbers tape. My sets were terminated with Cable pro silver plated copper spades and these are a bargain at $1.50 per spade. I crimped and then used only the Kester 60/40 solder that JR speaks of. You must practise, practise, practise on how to cut and strip the 89259 cable. I eventually settled on using a sharp new single edged razor. I bend the cable toward me and barely push down on the outer black teflon layer. When I can see the faintest hint of a split I turn the cable a bit and push down on the next adjacent spot, never using a sawing action but only pushing down enough to hear the teflon crack open. Only use minimum minimum force. If you knick a copper strand you probably are better off starting again on another piece (This happened twice to me in the 8 runs I needed, but if I had to do it again I wouldn't have this problem-- practise). When you have cut all around, you can peal the entire 7 inches of insulation off, I did this rather then pulling hard. I did it the way you would peal an orange, using only my fingernails.

To strip the 6 inches of white foamed teflon insulation off the inner conducter I used the same principle. Use minimum force, push down, no sawing, and let the bending action between your fingers pop open the teflon. I stripped the insulation off in two steps, 3 inches and then 3 more inches so that I wouldn't have to pull so hard on the delicate wires. ... To shield the leadouts, Tubeaholic recommends black and red Teflex over teflon tape. To get this Teflex on I first cut the material using a heated knife, and then slid the Teflex over a thin artist's paintbrush shaft. I then slid the Teflex over the leadouts that had their tips covered with either masking tape twirled to a point or coated to the tip with more teflon plumbers tape. With paintbrush handle to tip, you can just slide the Teflex over. ...Each CC89259 run has a protective slate colored Techflex sheath held on with more heatshrink and the result is attractive with high WAF (SAF for those who are either female audio inmates or have same sex mates).

This project cost me less than $200 for a bi-wired set which is a true audio bargain. I have heard so many people say that wires don't make much of a difference, but in my case the improvement was greater than an amp or a CDP upgrade. I can't imagine a true high end system that doesn't have really good speaker wires as part of the mix. Thanks JR.

Product Weakness: Takes real patience and trial runs to get a perfect execution
Product Strengths:
sound, looks, cost = the whole audiophile nirvana thing.

Associated Equipment for this Review:
Amplifier:	Jolida, 1501 integrated (100 wpc) with hybid tube preamp section
Preamplifier (or None if Integrated):	none
Sources (CDP/Turntable):	Ah Tjoeb 4000 CDP
Speakers:	B&W CDM 2 mains, Titanic 10
Cables/Interconnects:	JR 89259 CC bi-wired
Music Used (Genre/Selections):	Jazz, Orchestral, World beat, Chamber
Room Size (LxWxH):	27.5 x 23.5 x 8.5
Room Comments/Treatments:	drapes, acoustic blinds, cork layer under walnut flooring, oriental rugs, throw pillows
Time Period/Length of Audition:	two months
Other (Power Conditioner etc.):	Flexy rack, isolation tweaks on CDP, heavy duty Dayton sand filled speaker stands
Type of Audition/Review:	Product Owner

Product Weakness:	Takes real patience and trial runs to get a perfect execution
Product Strengths:	sound, looks, cost = the whole audiophile nirvana thing.