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Cable Asylum Interconnects, speaker wire, power cords. Ask the Cable Guys. |
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In Reply to: That's great posted by Schu on August 1, 2007 at 05:35:18:
Hi Bill ... I think I just received your email, If you are the member who is NW of Boston and has the Benchmark piece. I will be returning email shortly
As for the subs ... you would think that the 12" drivers (-3db @25hz) in my 3.3 would suffice to developed adequate bass
The addition of the first SUB15 added dimension and help define the listening space better . Another side benefit was because the SUB15 has a 15 inch driver, and it reaches a little lower than the 3.3's ... but I believe it's real benefit was providing some needed 1st and 2nd order harmonics from the lower decades which came up and added a touch of naturalness (notice I didn't say warmth) to the midrange.
Dynamics were also improved slightly, but the 3.3's do an excellent job of going low, so the improvement in dynamics wasn't dramatic like adding a sub to mini monitors.
The second Revel SUB15 was added to smoothen out room response ... by placing the second sub in a different room mode, it developed different peaks and nulls than the first. Now the peaks of one sub pulled up the nulls of the other and vice versa. Now I can use less electronic intervention for correction ... hey you shouldn't be boosting nulls anyway.
Peaks and nulls can be tricky to deal with but are predictable, the real bite on the A$$ and biggest degrader of sound is modal ringing in the bass region.
Thank you Ethan Winer for showing me the light, I am in the process of constructing 180 sq/ft of resistive bass traps. These will ad grunt and output by improving articulatons.
Try this with you subs ... (1st) shut the EQ off temporally (2nd) set the cross over point on the sub 1 octave above your main speakers -3db point, my NHT3.3 are -3db @ 25hz so my Xover is set to 50hz. (3rd) shut the sub off and run a test disc so the main speakers pump out 80db on the meter's C/wted/slow scale. (4th) shut the main speakers off and fire the sub back up, and run the test disc again, turning the volume up on the sub until you reach 80db again. You done
Now you should have a good blend with the xover between the sub and the main speakers ... IMO you need a little over lap in the xover and both sub and main speaker have the same acoustical output approx. 80 Db now. Give it a try ... might make your sub stop telegraphing itself and improve the midrange.
Your biggest adversary is going to be the floor to ceiling bounce, it's the shortest dimension and will be the most prominent of the 3 primary resonate freq's ... the other 2 being the distance between the side walls and the distance between the front and rear wall.
Measure the distance between the parallel walls, go into any of the acoustic sites and plug the footage into their formulas for freq response calculation, and Wa-la, it will give you the peak resonate freq. for that distance ... who needs a meter anyway.
This is just away to get a ball park figure and the rubber really meets the road at the listen position where the sound waves are colliding.
IMO there is no such thing as a musical sub ... subs are not slow ... 35hz is 35hz and that's the speed of that note ... if your sub sounds slow you have it crossed over wrong and if you think the sub is muddy ... you are just hitting that room mode a little to hard and generating excessive modal ringing and overhang hang. Sorry about my low frequency bad attitude
But hey this is a cable form and Ted is probably going to be by shortly and kick me out.
ATB Dave
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Follow Ups
- RE: That's great - dhrab 09:01:23 08/01/07 (1)
- You hit upon it - Schu 13:03:39 08/01/07 (0)
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