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Do It Yourself (DIY) paradise for tube and SET project builders.

RE: Vintage Tubes

Since most vintage tubes had low vacuum, thin glass envelopes,
asymmetrical internal wiring, parts made out of plain iron sheet, asymmetrical filament structures, filament structures not always physically matching the grid and plate's shapes, inferior metallurgy
with asymmetrical leads going to tube pins (a lot of NOS power tubes connected the plate AT ONE CORNER with a cheap, thin iron lead!!!!!!!!!!!), or worse yet (845, 805 211, etc.)-- Stuck a graphite plate upon a set of steel rods!-- talk about unwanted loose connections and diode-effects! TRASH! Why should anyone be using these things when he
can buy MUCH better today?

WHO designed these NOS tubes? Was it Woolworth's and K-Mart? Walmart? McDonald's Hamburgers?

There are a few exceptions-- Eimacs, etc., of course. I even use an old car-radio tube because it's symmetrical, has very heavy glass envelope, a high vacuum, and is a Loktal, which means it doesn't use soldered-on (anti-transparent and anti-coherent) tin-plated cheap iron pins.

That's a very rare exception, and it's not perfect. The direct-pins
on it are nevertheless iron. Give me a modern tube (from EML, etc.)
that has its wonderful characteristics, and I'll drop it like a Hot
Potato. Anybody want to manufacture a GOOD hi-mu driver? I said HI-MU.

Amp-factor of 90 to 100. Are you listening. EML??????

New Old Stock? Only when I HAVE TO!

-Dennis-



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