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RE: Love to ride...

The 'light bike' is one of the myths of cycling.
Sure, for a PRO who in a very aggressive stage may climb several thousand feet and still should have some power left for a Sprint, it makes sense to shave ounces.

But for MOST of us? I could LOSE the equivelent in weight of your steel bike and STILL be too heavy
Besides, not ALL steels are created equal.
For example:
Reynolds 753R is chemically identical to 531. difference are in wall thickness and the fact that the 753R is heat treated and requires a bit more skill to properly braze up without huring the material.

Aluminum has NO FATIGUE STRENGTH and due to that and lower tensile limits, must be 'laid on' a bit thicker and bigger diameter. Aluminum framesets have a very finite lifetime since every stress cycle eats into ultimate lifespan. This is for 6000 series alloys, which can be mainly heat treated to mild steel tubing levels = T6.
Other alloys of aluminum have different characteristics. Some can't be welded, but take to GLUE very well.

Titanium is where you want to be. An Aircraft Hydraulic Tubing alloy, like Six-Four or Three-two and a half are Ti / Al and Vanadium alloys which are amazing. High tensile strength AND a very high elasticity. They don't wear out, either. Fatigue limits are VERY high as is tensile limits.
Avoid CP Titanium (Commerically Pure)

Nothing wrong with a good steel bike.
Too much is never enough

Edits: 06/14/17

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  • RE: Love to ride... - pictureguy 13:17:35 06/14/17 (0)


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