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Seems that we like similar sound ...

Big and ballsy yet detailed and refined, and even delicate when called upon. To get the simple stuff out of the way first let's agree that this simply means you've gotta have a sub (or more, I have 8 X 12" in each side)! This also means big power to drive them. The good part here is that the sub amps don't have to be great and I've proven that (at least to my satisfaction). When I bought my current speakers I actually ran the subs with the pair of Gryphon class A monos which were internally bridged and good for 650 of the best watts SS can provide ... yep just for the subs. Obviously this was more than overkill and didn't make sense long term and eventually I replaced them with, of all things a pair of Class D PA amps which could provide 1500W when bridged and cost less than a grand each. I still have them today and while not quite as good (but damn close for bass use) they are still in my system.

I bought the ARC Ref 600s (600W) to drive the combo of my midbass towers (an array of 8 x 7" drivers) and the ESL panels which are crossed over at 180Hz. Today I run them with my Parallel SE 845s good for only about 75W. The big ARC PP amps sounded good and everything was there from highs to lows but they just lacked the depth and realism that SE is capable of and they were fatiguing. Mind you they finished up a whole heap better when converted to triode mode along with some other mods. I've tried all sorts of PP and SE amps in my system and SE wins in almost every way for realism. There are some good PP and SS amps just as there are bad SE tubers. But given the choice, for overall sound its SE for me.

If I was building some speakers on a reasonable budget I think I'd start with 12" subs (15" can be loose but great if you can find good ones). I'd opt for a line array with some decent drivers for the mids as I think these are the most important of the lot. I'm not sure what I'd use on top, I love my ESLs but they can be a bugger to get right and will always only ever be great in the dead centre position ... but in that position WOW! Ribbons maybe or just good fabric tweeters.

With half decent speakers, plenty of power in the bottom and the bottom kept right away from the mids with a steep slope filter ... and a very good source, I'm absolutely convinced that SE will give you the best result. Personally I'd keep the signal path as clean and simple as possible and that means no active crossovers in line with main speakers, only subs. The caveat being that I haven't heard good tube active crossovers.

My 5 cents worth.

Naz




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  • Seems that we like similar sound ... - Naz 19:48:43 02/26/07 (0)


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