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Fewer tubes require a fuse change...

You did change the fuse (the one closest to the power inlet, I believe) to correspond with the fewer number of tubes, right? When I spoke to Ralph about running fewer tubes he advised me to change the fuse (time-delay type) as such:

For 14 tubes, use a 5A fuse as supplied
For 8 tubes, use a 3A fuse
For 6 tubes, use a 2A fuse
For 4 tubes, use a 1.5A fuse
For 2, 10, or 12 tubes...I didn't ask but sure there's a corresponding fuse value to use for each combination that Ralph could advise about.

An equal number of tubes are to be used "per row" (doesn't matter where in the row), so one has to be able to identify same on their respective amp. With my long chassis MA-1's, a row is identified as either one of the two that run parallel with the input transformer cover. Your current production chassis appears to make that identification easy.

I ask in hopes of alerting you or others that while you can run Atmas with fewer tubes, there's a little more to do than just removing tubes.

If you find the sound of MA-1 with fewer tubes to sound the same as M60's with a full compliment, then perhaps keeping the MA-1's is the way to go. For me, power is still king with my JBL's despite their higher sensitivity. The reduced heat by running fewer tubes wasn't enough to give up the available power and headroom as my air conditioner still has to run all the same. It's nice to have options though.


voolston - audiophile by day, music lover by night!


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