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Tough issue.

I can see some basis for a complaint that a reviewer lacked the "bonafides" to back up a criticism, but, other than being a discerning consumer, what qualifies one to describe his gastronomic opinions?

His criticism of pricing? Probably spot on.

His notion that some dishes were insipid or insulting, also probably spot on.

I think even I am "bonafide" enough to spot an over-priced insipid dish.

What background does the restaurant's owner demand? That a critic be a trained chef? Have experience as a waiter? I'm at a loss as to what would qualify a person to be allowed to report on his experience at that establishment.

When he mentions "reviewers without agendas," then perhaps someone with culinary experience would be more likely to have an agenda than a lay person.

Thinking of the obvious Hi Fi analogy, I am happy to read reviews by Hi Fi reviewers who are not electrical engineers or equipment designers. I read Hi Fi reviews to get a notion of what another enthusiast heard, and over time, to compare my experience with his. The only bonafide I demand is a good description of the reviewer's experience so I can try to relate it to my own experiences.

I even allow Hi Fi reviewers to be of an age that their high frequency hearing skills are diminished…;)

So, as I said, until they open a food critics' school that I can be convinced is necessary in order to allow myself to consider a reviewer's opinion, I say let him go at it.

It seems his opinion is in line with more "established" critics, as well.


Bon apetit!

P.S. One problem with many new critics is that they seem to work overtime looking for things to be critical of, in order to demonstrate that they are, in fact, bonafide. It's a short step from neophyte to relentless criticizer. I bet you've seen it in Hi Fi and I certainly have with wine appreciation. I guess I'd like to know if the newbie critic has written any positive reviews...



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  • Tough issue. - Enophile 15:09:44 02/22/07 (0)


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