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RE: Anyone need black trim for a pair of 3.5/3.6/3.7's?

Replacing the trim is a piece of cake. The cloth is more tricky. Just unscrew the screws in the back that hold the old trim on, and off comes the old trim - and the cloth which is attached to it.

I **think** you can remove the cloth and reuse it.It is attached to some thin plastic rails along sides, top and bottom and these rails fit into grooves in the wooden trim. You stretch the cloth until the rial reaches the groove in the wood trim, then press or use a wood mallet or plastic face hammer to tap the rails into the grooves, it's a tight fit by design. So I THINK you could just change the wood trim, re-using your original cloth. If you work slowly and patiently, and pay attention to how the cloth came off the original trim.

Now, the wood trim I have came off my MG 3.6's and has the screw holes in the back of the wood that match the screw placement on my 3.6's. I don't know if the screws are in exactly the same place on all 3.6's. When I got my new natural oak wood trim, there were no holes drilled in them at all. I lined them up on my speakers then drilled pilot holes through the existing holes in the back of my 3.6's. THis worked just fine but since the wood trim did not come pre-drilled to match the holes in the frame of my 3.6's, I wonder if they are all a little different. You may need to place the wood trim on your speaker, hold them with some clamps and then drill the holes for the screws from the back. But then again maybe not, maybe the existing holes will line up. Anyway it just takes a second to drill a 1/2" deep pilot hole from the back into the trim. The trim is oak so you will need to drill a pilot hole for the screws, trying to put a wood screw into oak without first drilling a hole for it- you could split the oak, or the wood may resist the screw so strongly that you'll twist the head off the screw as you apply more and more torque to drive it into the oak.



Science doesn't care what you believe.



Edits: 05/07/21

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