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RE: Who needs details 2 refurbish Mags by themselves?

Hay JBen,
When frt 2 MN & back is less than $75, I wholeheartedly recommend let them do it.
Nowadays [(frt 2 MN is usually $100+) + (cost of repair) + (return frt usually $100+)] vs $1200+ for new units causes old units 2 B worth almost nothing. That's Y U C MG1's, MG2's, Tymp's etc 4 super low prices. What a waste!!! This forced me 2 learn how 2 do it myself.

90% of the time the mylar diaphragms R in good enuff condition 2 only need an acetone cleaning, tears taped & then voice coil replacement. After 30+ years of usage the voice coils crack & this side gets scummy possibly from the electric operational charges & scuzzy smoke. However the inner side usually stays clean enuff 2 use 4 another 30+ years.

I devised a simple method of using 1/2" long cut plastic hose (5/16" & 3/16") dia's w/fitted flathead screws, washers & nuts thru predrilled & counter sunk holes. Believe it or not it works best thru 1/8" masonite board & it's thin enuff 2 B easily removed. Oak grains split & dowel pins required a thicker stock which is harder 2 remove at completion. Of course a steel type would B best but few have access 2 all the nec machy. U don't need 2 make a mandolin wire holding fixture. Just use the panels themselves & the attached fitted masonite ends. This info should B EZ enuff 2 get anyone started.

Wen the mylar is shot or somebody wrongly thinks it's shot & removes it, now comes DIY Remylaring. Think wen U inflate a balloon: all section move away from a beginning edge. Plus wen U stretch the narrow sides U get pleating. Maybe this is where the Heil tweeter got its start.

Make 2 (3/8T x 7/8W x 60L)" pine moulding strips & 2 at the narrow side as U devise. Leave all corners unmiterred which allows the mylar more freedom to stretch. Obtain a (15-1/4W x 3/4T)" x 6 foot long white laminate shelf board available almost everywhere. 1/2" thick mite work OK but could B 2 flimsy. Mount one of the long strips along a long shelf edge equi distant from the ends, clamp it & drill holes 3" apart at the dia that firmly accepts 1" or 3/4" long flathead drywall screws & litely countersink. U want screws 2 B taunt enuff but never lose. This is U'r reference starting edge. Mylar comes in 27W" rolls so cut it in half at 13-1/2W". Remove the initial moulding, roll the new mylar out flat & tauntly sctotch tape around w/(1-2)" scotch tape pieces. MAKE SURE THERE R NO RIPPLES OF ANY KIND ELSE THEY WILL PROPAGATE CONTINUOUSLY. Remount the reference moulding & screw firmly. Measure width & length that U need & mark edges w/sharpie black marker for aligning the other 3 trim mouldings. Place & mount 3 corresponding very sq (1 x 1)" wood trims at a distance where several C-clamps can grab nicely approx. (3-4)" apart. Oil base paint all 4 mouldings & let dry 3 days. Now place qty (2) 1/2" strips of double coated window visqueen tape along side eachother as U mount 2 the bottom of the 3 outer trim mouldings. Trim excess tape. With care & maybe some aligning screws, press in place atop the new mylar.. Wait say 10mins then evenly pull the 3 sides via C-clamps & clamp down w/3/8" BX single sided clamps. Release C-clamps. Method 1: Remove driver from cab, chisel off 4 top (1-1/2)"W steel strips around driver, clean & sand. Clean driver then drop onto mylar. Trim & remove. Method 2: make a (3/8 x 1-1/2W)" size moulding trim picture frame w/ mitered corners, small L brackets, 3 day oil base paint, install one temporary brace across middle, then drop onto mylar. Trim & remove. This 2nd method creates a removable diaphragm 4 the future. Squeeze all air bubbles under picture frame & mount one long edge atop metal edge. Drill & screw this 1st edge w/proper screws, nuts & washers. U mite have 2 recess nuts. Now C-clamp the remaining long side until mylar gets fully taunt, clamp down, then drill & install same style screws, nuts & washers. Top & bottom shood B OK. Viola: "tuneable & removable diaphram"


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