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from tweaks:

at the top you'll see the area where the four pustab post reside (now removed from REBoylin's impressive setup) located in front of each panel. This is the area I'm refering to; it's were the 'rubber meets the road' and where the current is supplied to the drivers.
But notice how he actually removed the cheap, tin pustab post and inserted his own copper leads (incredible IMO).

ALWAYS better to solder (I recommend Cardas solder) but if you simply can't, then this is what I'd do instead(if you don't feel comfortable with doing the above or soldering):

drill small holes in the original tabs themselves (once the pushtabs are removed; I'd use a headless finishing nail or small bit).
wrap your new leads through the holes and around the tabs and secure each lead with electrical tape.

This leaves the original leads (wires with pushtabs) intact giving you the option to return it to it's original factory specs later (if you choose too).

A few words of advice:
-label (or color code) each lead; it'll save you a lot of headaches later. These are NOT wired 'mirror imaged' as in conventional speakers, rather: (-)(+)(+)(-) and (+)(-)(-)(+)
-use caution removing the pushtabs from their post (if it does not come off easily -back-off); break one and you'll cry like a baby
-ANY modification voids the warranty
-most XO advice recommends removing the fuse although you can run one inline (I don't)


The rest of the procedure is again, outlined in tweaks.

Good luck and God save us all..

____________//________________

listen


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  • from tweaks: - Green Lantern 01:45:01 12/16/06 (2)


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