I realize this has been discussed before, but the info is old and scattered on the forum.

I just grabbed two broken Lexicon LX-7's and have them all cleaned up and repaired. They are actually quite good cosmetically, but they are silver and I would love to have them reanodized in black. I realize that if I want to keep the silk-screening that I need to have that copied first, then have the old anodized layer removed, then reanodized and dyed black, then have the silk-screen reapplied. If the silkscreening is too expensive I may skip this part as there really isn't much on the amps anyway and "Lexicon" is engraved in the faceplate already so that will be retained no matter what.

I'm in Chicago. Does anyone know a good place that can do the whole shebang, or a good place for the silk-screening and a good place for the anodizing? Or is there a good company I can ship the faceplates to in order to have the whole process done?

I know a lot of folks will feel I should keep the ampos original, but I've always been into customizing things to my taste. Also in this rack, I have a Lexicon MC-10 that is black and all the rest of the equipment is black. I just think it will look great to have them match better. Photos below:

They were very clean inside when I got them and after I cleaned them up they look brand new!

Any help finding a shop would be appreciated.

Thanks and kind regards,
craigr

 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - craigr 12:51:08 11/01/20 (6)
 Reanodization Completed With Pics! - craigr 13:33:04 02/18/21 (0)
 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - Todd A. 14:18:08 11/01/20 (4)

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 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - craigr 12:51:08 11/01/20 (6)
 Reanodization Completed With Pics! - craigr 13:33:04 02/18/21 (0)
 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - Todd A. 14:18:08 11/01/20 (4)
 Right you are... Laser... almost call it a duplicate and not a copy.nT - Cleantimestream 10:14:22 11/03/20 (0)
 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - craigr 18:03:39 11/01/20 (2)
 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - Todd A. 17:44:16 11/02/20 (1)
 RE: Reanodize Face Plate? - craigr 06:43:16 11/03/20 (0)

I realize this has been discussed before, but the info is old and scattered on the forum.

I just grabbed two broken Lexicon LX-7's and have them all cleaned up and repaired. They are actually quite good cosmetically, but they are silver and I would love to have them reanodized in black. I realize that if I want to keep the silk-screening that I need to have that copied first, then have the old anodized layer removed, then reanodized and dyed black, then have the silk-screen reapplied. If the silkscreening is too expensive I may skip this part as there really isn't much on the amps anyway and "Lexicon" is engraved in the faceplate already so that will be retained no matter what.

I'm in Chicago. Does anyone know a good place that can do the whole shebang, or a good place for the silk-screening and a good place for the anodizing? Or is there a good company I can ship the faceplates to in order to have the whole process done?

I know a lot of folks will feel I should keep the amps original, but I've always been into customizing things to my taste. Also in this rack, I have a Lexicon MC-10 that is black and all the rest of the equipment is black. I just think it will look great to have them match better. Photos below:

Any help finding a shop would be appreciated.

Thanks and kind regards,
craigr

There are tons of anodizing places in Chicago, I just wish I could narrow it down. I'll ask some of my car friends and clients, that's a good idea.

As cool as the CNC laser sounds, what I was thinking was to try and closely match the font and color of the lettering on the MC-10.

Tough decisions I know :)

Kind regards,
craigr

I have been reconsidering the CNC idea of yours. It would be a cool look, it just wouldn't match my other gear. That said, if I don't like the shiny finish with CNC I could easily paint inside indentations.

I'm busy this week and I have to make sure I can convert these to 230v. I've asked around and nobody know the answer. I think it's a simple matter of changing the transform plug and putting in a fuse half that for 120v, but I would like to be certain. Here is a pick of the inside of one (the other is similar but has two plugs to move).

craigr

I just got the faceplates back today after having them reanodized in black. They were done at Mike's Anodizing Company here in Chicago (859 N Spaulding Ave, 773-722-5778). Mike says he likes doing little projects like these, and he personally spent a good amount of time with me. He gave me a tour of their facility and it is really something and it sure is bigger than I expected. He also said they would take a week, but I brought them in Monday morning around 10:00 and they were finished Wednesday afternoon.

I considered matching the texture of the LX-7's with the MC-10, but Mike said he'd have to send them out for that. It would have taken a week and cost $115 plus shipping. Mike thought I'd be really happy leaving them as-is and boy he was right. It would have been a waste. He also said their military black would be a near perfect match to the MC-10 and he was correct there too. Lexicon black is like pitch black, which is a bit atypical for AV gear, but Mike said this is what the military expects when they ask for black. He really knows his stuff and I highly recommend the company. They also stripped the old anodization before the reanodization. I removed the original silkscreen myself with Goof Off, a Q-tip, a microfiber, and some elbow grease.

I don't want to post pricing because it's not my intention to box them in, but I will say I found the price very reasonable. I really wanted to attempt this on my own, but I doubt my results would have been nearly this good and I am sure procuring everything to do it would have actually cost more (plus a lot of time).

I had to over expose the photos in my theater because it's hard to see anything in there due to the entire room being black and nonreflective. Also, there is a bit of a trick of the light and they don't look the same color in the photo, but they are. I even switched the two faceplates to be sure. I think it's the black leather chair reflecting off the bottom one a bit.

Anyway, I have to decide if I want to restore the original silkscreen or not. I think they look good the way they are already, but maybe they would be better. Mike also recommended having them laser etched instead of silkscreened, and he gave me a referral for that. I'm waiting for their quite before I decide.

Oh yeah, another thing is that after I took the photos I added neutral density filters to the LEDs so they wouldn't be so bright in my dark room. I just barely like to be able to see them in the dark so they aren't distracting, but they still provide their information (blue is nominal, red is overheat...).

I'm quite please :D

craigr