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VHD RCA male: how does it work?

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Posted on January 14, 2017 at 19:15:31
dave789
Audiophile

Posts: 476
Joined: September 21, 2001
Does anyone know how VDH male RCA plug works in the case of making DIY cable (how we solder or compress electrical connection, how to engage strain relief, etc.)?

 

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RE: VHD RCA male: how does it work?, posted on January 14, 2017 at 20:54:27
Duster
Audiophile

Posts: 12497
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: August 25, 2002
I don't see any image of the internal view of the connector via the Van den Hul web site nor Google Images. Perhaps you can post some clear photos of it.

 

Like these? Haven't a clue but my interest is peaked!, posted on January 16, 2017 at 14:48:46
Jonesy
Audiophile

Posts: 1225
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Joined: September 1, 2005



Found this pic on the net. But no instructions.

Cheers!

Jonesy

"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."

 

RE: VHD RCA male: how does it work?, posted on January 16, 2017 at 18:23:07
Duster
Audiophile

Posts: 12497
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: August 25, 2002






Without going into a step-by-step instructions, here's some images that show the nature of that type of connector. The Van den Hul design is similar to the Vampire 7X/CB, which is intended for coaxial cables. If you do not seek an rca connector for a coaxial cable, there are other options to choose from.

The design involves a threaded connector base, a shroud that covers/connects the flayed strands of a braided shield that's folded back onto the cable jacket, a center pin with dielectric, a ground contact sheath, and a connector barrel that is screwed onto the threaded connector base for a proper compression-fit termination.

Note: Be aware that there are many Van den Hul connectors via the web that are likely counterfeit. I recommend buying from an authentic Van den Hul dealer in order to avoid a fake product of unknown quality.

 

instructions...., posted on January 26, 2017 at 16:35:50
3+4=5
Audiophile

Posts: 623
Location: Midwest
Joined: December 24, 2016
The type of RCA is usually called (at least in my realm) a 'tiffany style' RCA.

First thing put the knurled screw top up the IC wire, threaded side so it can screw into rest of parts.
Then up the wire place the six slot short barrel with the slot side up the wire. (the 'apparent' threads in this part are to grab the IC outer casing for stress relief, the fat bump end will press on the loose ground wires.) These parts MUST be placed IN ADVANCE. Forget? hah hah hah (been there done that)

Strip the outer and inner IC wire to allow the center to be bare wire about 7mm usually. Cut back the outer sheath a bit more, maybe an additional 2mm. (this is really to keep the hot and ground at a distance from each other, not much, but a little.)

Solder the center wire to: the (usually) Teflon barrel, the fat white barrel with the male prong sticking out. This is what the hot IC wire is soldered to poking in from the back (White barrel end), (most often the male prong has a hole in the visible side to easily solder the hot wire in)
The center hot should have the shield still intact directly next to where it sticks out of the white barrel with male pin. (adjust your bare hot wire length so this is the case before soldering in in) Soldering at the hole in the pin.

Then spread out the woven ground wire mesh so it is splayed all to the sides evenly 2mm back from the now soldered center. (I usually unweave the wire, so they are straight wires not a bunch of clumped up mess. I use a tiny jewelers screwdriver for this)
Then trim the bare ground wires outside circumference so it is a circle of bare wires sticking out away and about 5mm wider than the IC hot wire with shield. (yes it should be wider than the total circumference of the finished RCA barrel, at least a little bit at this point.)

Place the barrel tube with the four slots slot side out (the slotted area is the grabbing part to hold on to the female outer shell in the completed RCA)
SO the white part fits into the solid end of the four slot part (the male part peeking out in the slotted area)

Bring up the finish (labelled) outer barrel up the assembly.

Bring down the six sided barrel from up on the cable (where you put it IN ADVANCE.. if you forgot? start over!) and let the fat bump end rest against the splayed out ground wires
Bring down the upper screw top (again, if you forgot, or placed upside down, or in wrong order, STOP, unsolder and start over)
Press the srew top, and the screw outer shell together and screw top down into the outer bottom finish barrel.. And screw them together, compressing the six sided barrel bulging part down against the ground wires trapping them into a gas tight seal as you tighten the top out part.

I like RCA with a slot which a wrench can fit on. rather than the pictured type of knurled area. Usually the knurled area gets scratched to hell trying to make the unit tight.(If you have very high hand strength, then you can finish by hand. Weak hands not good for this)
A top with a wrench face does not get marked up so easily.

(My favorite RCA is Vampire (brand) tiffany style. They come in a full variety of IC wire sizes of 4mm 5mm 6mm 7mm 8mm 9mm 10mm
A close match of wire to opening is the best (so the built in strain relief works well

Added: One thing about this design. Do NOT take it apart to 'look' at the results. Opening it back up really messes up the ground connection, for good. YOU would need to start over to get back to a gas tight good seal.
So do it once, and leave it alone!
I have one which are 15 years old and still in use...
I LOVE this RCA design. Way more than any do it yourself solder to ground type. (even WBT, though I like factory made WBT! and Cardas too)

 

Excellent Instructions..., posted on January 27, 2017 at 07:52:06
Jonesy
Audiophile

Posts: 1225
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Joined: September 1, 2005
and it makes one appreciate the integrity of the design.

I don't need any connectors at this point, but am now kicking myself for not stocking up on some Vampire RCA's Parts Connexion had as part of a clearance sale. I don't know if they used the same mechanical structure, but they are gone now. So that's that.

Looking at the PDF diagrams of the Vampire RCA's they do have on hand, your instructions are invaluable.

Thanks for this.

Jonesy



"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."

 

Yeah, I did buy a big stock of the 5mm ones...and have a few 10mm ones I bought years ago., posted on January 27, 2017 at 12:11:32
3+4=5
Audiophile

Posts: 623
Location: Midwest
Joined: December 24, 2016
I have plenty of RCA of various types.
All bought at one sale or another

The only ones I hated were the Eichmann plastic body ones. I found them to be a real PITA, and after just trying to solder one ground I said never again.

Of all the various RCA I have used in home made IC, The Vampire Tiffany are my all time favorites.

 

I'm Envious!, posted on January 27, 2017 at 12:43:00
Jonesy
Audiophile

Posts: 1225
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Joined: September 1, 2005
I've got a DIY cable using a Vampire BNC at one end. And a female BNC in my CD player digital out. And a Vampire phono grounding post on my preamp.

But that's about it.

I've always liked the Vampire products. Should've stocked up on the RCA's.

I've read many a tale about those bullet plugs. I'd be concerned about their mechanical integrity even if one managed to solder the tiny bit of ground metal.

Cheers!

Jonesy



"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."

 

RE: I'm Envious!, posted on January 27, 2017 at 14:00:18
Duster
Audiophile

Posts: 12497
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: August 25, 2002
All of Vampire's Tiffany style rca connectors are still available.

See link:

 

Thanks for the link Duster! (nt), posted on January 28, 2017 at 07:03:15
Jonesy
Audiophile

Posts: 1225
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Joined: September 1, 2005
nt

"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."

 

tightening torque, cut through?, posted on March 6, 2017 at 06:35:40
dave789
Audiophile

Posts: 476
Joined: September 21, 2001
Are the ground wires easily cut, if I over torque it with my fingers?

In the case of bare speaker wire on the typical 5-way binding post, it is very easy to cut some strands with not very high torque exerted by my fingers - no tool -.

 

RE: tightening torque, cut through?, posted on March 6, 2017 at 12:33:44
Duster
Audiophile

Posts: 12497
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: August 25, 2002
It's important for that type of rca connector to have a snug fit. The compression function of the rca connector involves the flayed strands of the braided shield to be folded back onto a compliant (soft) cable jacket, and there isn't the same type of cutting edge that a binding post hole can cause when a binding post nut is tightened onto the vulnerable wire strands.

 

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