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So I mixed up a batch:1:5 of 99.9% Medical Grade Isopropyl Alcohol to de-ionized H2O for a total of about 1/2 a liter then added 3 drops of the above.
That's it. In fact maybe two drops would have done it.
Seems to work. Using a VPI 16.5 and do LOTS of rinsing and scrubbing. Have access to de-ionized water cheap (use it in the piano humidifier) so buying a couple gallons at the water filtering machine in the grocery store every few weeks.
Hopefully, if there is anything BAD in the above formulae it's only on the record for a few minutes and is thoroughly washed away with the de-ionized water.
Edits: 02/03/21Follow Ups:
I recently started cleaning vinyl. I am using Tergikleen, which is blend of two types of Tergitol (supposedly they work in a synergistic way but I am not a chemist). The manufacturer states not to add IPA though some on-line users do. I used about 10 drops in a liter of DI water - that solution does not foam but it does 'wet' on a record and I can get a uniform film that I let sit for a minute before the manual light scrubbing. I wonder about rinsing though, DI water does not wet on vinyl so I scrub it into the grooves as much as I can then vacuum, and I do that twice to be sure. Very dirty records come out clean with much less ticks & pops and new records do seem to sound more open. Now that my first batch of washing solution is nearly done I might experiment by adding some IPA and see if it makes a difference to discs that still have underlying crackling or makes a difference to the sound of new discs.
Over the last four decades I never paid too much attention to record cleaning but now my rig is restored and embellished. We have cats, and cat fur gets everywhere. Often I'll see a strand of cat fur on a disc and use a carbon brush to remove it only to find it brings up a huge line of dust from the grooves. Post washing the dust is all gone and I only have to brush off the odd strand of cat fur that falls on the disc from sleeve to platter (and I play lid-down for peace of mind)
I'm really glad I got into record cleaning, for anyone concerned about the cost of entry I'm using a Vinyl Bug - all in with separate wash and rinse vacuum arms (use the mesh cloth rather than the micro-fibre covering), cleaning solution and the cheapest Home Depot shop vac the total cost is ~$200. Also I prefer Home Depot paint pads (~$4) over bespoke brushes ($20+) to apply fluids. And you can get DI (reverse osmosis filtered + de-ionized water) from Wholefoods for 60c a gallon (BYOB).
Regards,
13DoW
As you noticed, it doesn't take very much of the Triton X-100, as it is seriously concentrated. So, your plastic bottle of Triton X-100 will sit on a shelf for a long time. Mine sat so long that the Triton nonionic surfactant ate a hole near the bottom of the plastic bottle and leaked out. Cleaning up the surfactant took forever.
I started by mechanically removing as much as I could then took forever with a sponge and water. I lost count of the number of sponge and rinse cycles. It just kept coming and coming. The other problem was the other items on the shelf were also covered with Triton X-100. I did end up with a very clean shelf though.
I transferred the remaining X-100 to a glass bottle. One hint that I failed to act upon was that the original plastic container was gradually compressing. It looked like the bottle was squeezed and never expanded. I should have investigated the reason for that a lot earlier.
Fortunately, the water in my house enters a septic system and not the Pacific Ocean, so the salmon will not taste like catfish.
I don't doubt you or your story about a leaky bottle of Triton X-100, but I do very much doubt that concentrated Triton X-100 could ever eat through its supplied plastic bottle. Triton X-100 is an important reagent in biology. In my lab, we used to have a plastic bottle of it, like the one shown. As you say, it lasted a long time, certainly more than a decade and maybe more than two decades, because one uses so little of it in any given procedure. And yet, we never had a problem with the substance itself eating its container. I am guessing that your bottle was defective, either due to mishandling or some sort of pinhole in the bottom seam.
As far as record cleaning goes, I do use Triton X100 in my RCM fluid, and I rinse with distilled water at the end of the procedure to get rid of residual detergent. One rinse does the trick. Guess where I got my bottle of Triton X100. It's the one off the shelf from my lab.
I rarely used it because of its high concentration, and it sat in a high, closed, cabinet on a very smooth surface.. When using it, I removed the amount I needed with an eye dropper.
more than by the end user.
"Once this was all Black Plasma and Imagination" -Michael McClure
communication without personal contact can be interpreted in so many different ways. Kind of comical really.
At about three drops per 500 ml of cleaning solution, my 120 ml bottle will certainly outlive me.
nt
the reason they put date coding on products is to make sure the product is not used after that date. How do I know? I used to test products like this in a LABORATORY. Why not? Because the plasticizers leach out into the solution and you might end up drinking it. Heating up your soups or whatever won't get rid of it and now it's in your stomach.
Never and I mean NEVER use anything long term unless you put it in a glass container.
About 1973, I went overnight hiking in Alaska and brought along a plastic quart bottle of wine. I used the plastic bottle to save weight in my backpack.
After several hours of day hiking on a sunny day, we returned to camp for dinner and wine. When it came time to drink the wine, we had a wonderful, expected, taste on our minds. On the very first sip, we all gagged and spit out the wine. It tasted like something in a chem lab brown bottle. We all reached for water and tried several rinses. I don't even drink water out of a plastic cup anymore. We poured the rest of the wine out onto the ground, and it would be interesting today to go back and see if any mutant plants sprung up there.
nt
nt
nice if you can afford the professional. I used to work in a Pharmacy and did extensive work in Laboratories and it's still a rule to use tinted glass for long term storage. If you can limit the amount of air in it, so much the better but that's HTD.
The packaging industry always weighs the cost and plastic is cheap. Glass is a much better container in this case. I've seen many products lately that should be in glass but are now in plastic. Most companies look at numbers on spreadsheets so it's best to buy glass containers as extra's and poor the contents into them for LT storage, LT being as short as a few months.
My wife stores all kinds of things in the cabinets and last week I found something dripping out one cab. The plastic syrup container that looked semi melted was still unopened and it took me an hour to clean the mess. Someone is not making plastic like they use to.
Yeah, just three drops into 500ml makes for a soapy mix.
But I rinse a LOT and then make sure the LP does not smell of the 15-20 percent alcohol that's in the solution.
Photoflo 200 are hard to remove from vinyl, so your extra rinsing is a good idea.
I cannot remember how many years it took for that leak to develop, but I will never forget how hard it was to clean up. If three drops in 500ml is enough, you can imagine when several ounces leaks out onto a surface and onto other items on the shelf.
My solution to the solution is similar, except I'm using distilled water and perhaps 1/6 ratio. I do a rinse with the distilled after the cleaning as well. It sure beats buying quarts of cleaner for $30.
P
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