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In Reply to: RE: going to upgrade some caps, maybe some advice needed posted by Lew on January 14, 2021 at 08:58:55
In fact i have to crank the thing up so darn high for the lead-free solder I used originally. I'm going back to lead
Edits: 01/14/21Follow Ups:
My Haake came with a default to 750 degrees, and that's where I found it works very well, with lead-containing solder only. So far, I have been able to avoid lead-free solder. Before purchasing the Haake, I had been using a Velleman solder station for maybe 15-20 years, which I used to set at about 670 degrees. The higher temp of the Haake works much better.
I'm around 400 F , as low as I can and have the solder still melt. I was about 575 for the lead free. I'm going to go higher now, no wonder I was having issues. I have a couple different solders now that have left their packages since my original build and now I forgot which one is lead or lead-free. :-(
at higher temperatures of the solder gun, you can get in and out much faster with actually less risk of overheating and damaging a part. The change from ~670 degrees with my Velleman to 750 degrees with may Hakko shows me this is true on a daily basis. I just love that Hakko, even though I misspelled the brand name several times above. I bought the 888D for a bit more than $100; it's all I will ever need.
wish I knew this before I built the PH16, would have saved me some grief and profanity ... lesson learned. I do have variable temp, some off brand cheapo called X-tronic, but seems to work ok. I don't think that beats the rack stereo I once saw called "Electro Brand", with a 'tower' speaker containing maybe one 5 1/4 driver.
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