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In Reply to: RE: I've got one of those, but it doesn't work very well for me. posted by ghost of olddude55 on January 14, 2021 at 10:07:00
Like I said, the wick has never been great for me (in over 40 years of trying), although I have had some success using it to fine tune some desoldered areas.
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Other brands just aren't the same and are frustrating to use.
Both the Cat-A-Pult and my current electric I linked to down the thread are great for point-to-point but often leave solder in a PCB eyelet. Heating the lead on the new part and trying to push it through is hit or miss and can overheat the part.
Holding the braid with the iron to the eyelet and then introducing a bit of fresh solder just as if you were soldering the braid to the board, then pulling/rubbing an inch or two of the braid along instantly clears the hole. I'd need prehensile toes to do that with a bulb type.
As others have posted, a solder station is desirable; my Hakko is nearly old enough to vote and invaluable especially when you need to bring the thunder like tinning heavy solid core wire for ground buss or tinning that pesky Cardas with each strand urethaned.
With great power comes great responsibility, though; especially beginners should be careful and stay in the 700 degree range for nearly all tasks. Using the higher heat to quickly get on and off which is preferred, takes some practice.
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geze maybe that's my problem, I'm working just over 400, except with my lead-free solder. I was afraid over overheating stuff.
I have a Hakko also and do pretty much everything at 700F. I occasionally go higher for heavy duty stuff but rarely ever go lower. At that temp the solder melts pretty much instantly and you can get "in and out" quickly and not overheat the part. Soaking a part at 400F. for long periods will cause overheating.
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Any Damned Fool Knows One Horse Can Run Faster Than Another
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