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In Reply to: RE: going to upgrade some caps, maybe some advice needed posted by NuWave on January 13, 2021 at 13:58:30
nt
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I've never had as much luck with using just solder wick as some others here, but IME that tool right there is the real deal, especially with point-to-point gear. If you're working on unusually heavy solder joints/blobs, a second low-power iron helps to loosen it for easy removal. I have a Hakko desoldering kit, which of course is badass, etc, but it also requires more maintenance to keep the performance up to snuff, and it's a still a bit bulky to use in the aforementioned point-to-point gear, which can be both tiny and cramped.
If you do buy one of the vintage style desoldering tools, get extra tips and stock up on steel paper clips to keep the nozzles clear (it stays hot enough that you can *carefully* run the clip in the nozzle to make sure it stays clear).
I have not had a reason to use it yet. Thanks for the paper clip tip too.
desoldering wick works well enough that the cap will drop out by itself.
The problem is not that there is evil in the world, the problem is that there is good. Because otherwise, who would care?
Like I said, the wick has never been great for me (in over 40 years of trying), although I have had some success using it to fine tune some desoldered areas.
shoot me an email, and I'll send you mine.
The problem is not that there is evil in the world, the problem is that there is good. Because otherwise, who would care?
Other brands just aren't the same and are frustrating to use.
Both the Cat-A-Pult and my current electric I linked to down the thread are great for point-to-point but often leave solder in a PCB eyelet. Heating the lead on the new part and trying to push it through is hit or miss and can overheat the part.
Holding the braid with the iron to the eyelet and then introducing a bit of fresh solder just as if you were soldering the braid to the board, then pulling/rubbing an inch or two of the braid along instantly clears the hole. I'd need prehensile toes to do that with a bulb type.
As others have posted, a solder station is desirable; my Hakko is nearly old enough to vote and invaluable especially when you need to bring the thunder like tinning heavy solid core wire for ground buss or tinning that pesky Cardas with each strand urethaned.
With great power comes great responsibility, though; especially beginners should be careful and stay in the 700 degree range for nearly all tasks. Using the higher heat to quickly get on and off which is preferred, takes some practice.
Any Damned Fool Knows One Horse Can Run Faster Than Another
geze maybe that's my problem, I'm working just over 400, except with my lead-free solder. I was afraid over overheating stuff.
I have a Hakko also and do pretty much everything at 700F. I occasionally go higher for heavy duty stuff but rarely ever go lower. At that temp the solder melts pretty much instantly and you can get "in and out" quickly and not overheat the part. Soaking a part at 400F. for long periods will cause overheating.
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Freak out...Far out...In out....
Any Damned Fool Knows One Horse Can Run Faster Than Another
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