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Since I'm not sold on the looks of the new P8 table, I was wondering if it would be too much of a sideways move to install the arm from the P8, the RB880, on the P6?Is the P6 table good enough to take advantage of the better arm?
Any thoughts would be appreciated, bob
Edits: 08/25/20Follow Ups:
I did upgrade my P6 to a RB880 tonearm and the diffrence is bigger than I thought it would be. Sounds more musical, also a big diffrence is the hum level much lower. I would reccomend upgrading the tonearm. check out #johannkvinyl on instagram for my tt and setup.
I'm on my third Rega turntable now. First a 2, then a 3. Even the 3 benefited from a good cartridge, so I don't see what you are worrying about. I had a $1000 cartridge on a $1000 turntable and it was just fine.I very quickly got my RP8 to my liking. The cartridge was on the heavy side, so I ditched the Rega counterweight and got one of those low slung weights. Somehow, I didn't get a Rega wool mat with the RP8, but a hard mat instead and I already had my own favorite hard mat, so I now have two to choose from.
I already had an isolation platform to set the turntable on. That's it, I was good to go.
I think that the counterweight upgrade was a good and reasonable choice and I still have the original counterweight if I ever need to sell the turntable to make room for a new one.
Edits: 08/30/20
I think the upgraded arm would be an improvement, but who knows if the results would be valuable enough to invest the money.
the arm has a very difficult job, and often gets overlooked at times because it doesn't spin around or have much action at all when in use.
I should have said guess , instead of think, I can only guess from the logical conclusion that if a better arm could be supplied on a lower price point table, it would only help sales.
On the other hand, the arms at each price point might be very similar, but perhaps they thought a universal arm for the better tables would make them less distinct , so each table got a different name for almost the same Arm. Not that I believe that, for conversation only, trying to develop the topic.
I would investigate the arm differences very carefully, to make sure the differences are worth it to you. For all I know , if the similar arm theory is correct, the difference might only be an optimum voicing for each table, and you might go backwards, if each arm is voiced for each table. Again, not that I believe that, etc.
I have a Mitchell Techno arm A, which Is a modified rega, using the old casting, perhaps a 300 casting?
I believe the main improvement was gained from adjusting the bearings, but it does have a different stub for the Michell underhung weight, is bead blasted for hardness, drilled out for lightness, foam damped in the arm tube, a continuous fine silver braided wire from cart to phono plug, and the casting is machined flat at the cartridge interface.
the arm secures on a threaded post, so that with the gyro table, I can reach under and easily change the arm height during play, by just unscrewing the mounting nuts , adjust the stylus rake angle by ear, and retighten.*
That's what I got for my money, I hope pointing out what is different from stock helps your analysis towards a buying decision.
My primary buying trigger was cost, but I also needed adjust on the fly capability, since I use only the aggressive modern stylus shapes, where angle is critical. I mostly just keep it on the general sweet spot, but it is fun to dial in the optimum sound when desired.
Last time I checked, rega wasn't a fan of adjustable mechanisms, at one time they used shims for different record thicknesses, maybe they still do. I can't say they are wrong, but I can say My arm post is screwed down tightly, at whatever height is needed, with a twist of the wrist.
As I said, I think the major deal with my arm is the labor spent on the bearings. But all the hot rod stuff is nice, and nothing but conventional. I wouldn't have purchased an arm without adjustment on the fly, although it is not promoted as an adjustable arm. The unique spider chassis allows me to reach under to secure both top and bottom nuts on the arm post.
AS you might know, some super expensive arms even have a tilt to adjust the vertical east west angle of the tip in the groove, while others offer no adjustments at those price points. .
While cost and adjustability on the fly were my primary buying triggers, another motivating factor to buy was that the arm was voiced to the table by Michell himself , the arm was one of his last projects. He originally voiced the gyro before they marketed an arm, so he used the top SME to voice the table what else. Years later the Michell arm was voiced to the gyro table
I figured the symmetry of the voicing was important to a guy on a budget, and at my skill level, a synergistic match on my own would be only lucky. price probably dictates how important this becomes.
I guess you would still enjoy a match with the house sound by staying within the same product line, much like a guy putting a better suspension on his car, it works better if tuned to the car.
I guess now that I have let my mouth run, I will go over to the rega site and see how deeply I have put my foot on my mouth. I used to keep up with all that stuff, but am no longer in the market.
I have learned a lot on this site, but am not really an audiophile , I just wanted info to make good buying decisions as I upgrade my stuff, but not upgrade into perpetuity. .
* I loosen the bottom nut, so that the arm post, with a fine pitched machine screw thread on the outside, is hanging on the top nut. During initial play, the top nut is adjusted to taste, there is not a big swing , and then secured with the bottom nut being tightened.
I have a small tattle tale mark for home position, so I don't get lost by tricks of the mind when listening closely for a sonic effect, it happens. All this is done with care on my suspended table, the frequency tuning leaves it kind of bouncy.
I bet you are wondering if this guy ever shuts up. Good question. As an aside, I had a big rough rescue dog that would respond positively when I hit the correct stylus angle. You could tell by watching his ears. Only dog I ever saw who enjoyed listening to records. Most just lay there, with the only response being to leave if the music is disagreeable.
Thanks again to all with an extra nod to 'beach cruiser' for his text reminded me of a change I made against the dealer's recommendation (in the late 1980s or early 1990s).
I had the LINN dealer install an ITTOK arm on my LINN Axis. I even had to sign that I was doing so against his recommendation.
The new combination never sounded as free-flowing as with the original arm. Music seemed drier.
As a result I have decided I will not upgrade arm. I may compare P8 and basic LINN Sondek (Majik) but,since my taste in music has changed over the decades resulting in most of my favourite music these days being on my CD and SACD collections, I will most likely go for a cartridge upgrade. From a Nagaoka 110 to their 200, 300 or 500 model(s).
It seems that this is an excellent example of the benefits of such a forum.
Merci, Bob
Maybe, but can't say for certain.The P6, P8 and P10 use the same Santaprene 8 foam core, the surface skin may be different but they both perform the same duties as being a stress skin finish. The P8 does use the RB880 arm but remember, the P6's RB330 (same as found on the P3) is good for $1000 dollar carts so if you aren't inclined to go that high, upgrading to the RB880 is likely a moot thing, thus likely more of a sideways move than any real improvement, unless you use it to it's fullest.
The other difference is the 8 uses a twin belt pulley setup but am not certain the sub platter (hub) is any different without looking it up.
I believe the 10 uses a 3 belt setup as one of the upgrades to the 8 (the arm and a few other things are improved over the 8)
I have the current P6 and love it.
That's my take. You can buy the arms separately you know the other thing is, I believe all the arms use the same geometry I believe so the 880 should fit without any mods necessary.
Edits: 08/25/20
Last I looked, there were a few US mail order places selling them. Music Direct, for one.So, they don't sell if you have a local Rega dealer? I don't know as I bought my used locally from another audiophile.
They were going for $1995.00 which seemed like a steal.
The looks are fabulous to me and much better than the new P8.
I like the old style cover, too.
Edits: 08/25/20
Thanks to the three of you. Since I already own the P6 I will check with dealer to see about trade-up cost.
Bob
The RP8 is a fantastic turntable. I would still own one had I not purchased the RP10. No regrets there, either. The current Planar 8 and 10, one might assume, should have slight improvements compared to their predecessors, but I feel they lost some style points.
the P8 looks like a piece of packing foam with chunks cut out. I wouldn't want to look at that thing either. Yes I know I've never heard one. I would think the P6 would be a capable enough table for their better arm but I haven't heard those either. Just looks like Rega is trying to fight above their weight class by wearing fancier boxing shorts.
Edits: 08/25/20
the plinth material is the same. IIRC, same motor and main bearing, too.
The problem is not that there is evil in the world, the problem is that there is good. Because otherwise, who would care?
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