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In Reply to: RE: Pickering UV-15 D2000-Q (pics) posted by user510 on January 08, 2017 at 23:10:30
...was the exact word I used to describe the sound of my Signet cart (before I replaced the stylus this past week)- clearly mistracking.
It looked quite good to the naked eye but it subsequently turned out that the cantilever had been bent, then bent back by some previous owner. It was "close enuf" to play, but sounded awful and I'm sure it did some damage to the LP I was using to audition.
I discovered the damage by ever-do-gently pressing the cantilever tip with my finger-- it split and turned 90 degrees! I assumed I had wrecked it but, looking in my crappy microscope, saw the tube had been severely indented just below the break.
The hashy, scraping sound must have come from the diamond being badly out of whack relative to the cartridge body, resulting in a very bad net alignment. This may have no bearing on your issues but something like it is a possibility. Good luck, Steve.
Follow Ups:
at this point my assumption is that I need to replace the stylus assembly....or refurbish it.
I'm not at all sure about available products for this specific assembly; the D 2000-Q. I believe there was also a D4000-Q. I'll need to do some actual research when I get around to it.
At this point I haven't given the cartridge much interest in terms of time or consideration. But I've a hunch that when in 100% health and correctly implemented, it might be a good sounding item.
-Steve
Other than another D2000Q, your ONLY options are the Stanton 7804DQ stylus or the D2400Q. The D4000 is for the XSV4000 (MM) and is not compatible since the UV15 is an MI design.
The D4500Q is for the XUV which is another MM design. The D4500S is for the low impedance XLZ body...
If the elastomer has hardened, there is no practical way to refurbish it since the tube crimping is one of the controls of compliance and "pinches" the elastomer by the desired amount. The tie-wire is soldered in position. Any attempt to disassemble is basically going to destroy it. Retipping is only viable if you are sure that the elastomer is still "good" and for preference you should only replace the tip itself and not the entire cantilever which will change the mechanical properties of the system from the design values.
Regards Anthony
"Beauty is Truth, Truth Beauty.." Keats
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