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I found a Denon DB 6000 on CL last year. I am now getting around to working on it. It has had an uncertain life. The arm is broken. It may have been shipped with the platter on. On the good side it looks like it a low use TT as the buttons are clean and no wear.
It stays solid on the speed and does not waver on the start up. I doesn't seem to like to go manual on the speed control. It takes maybe 2 minutes to spin down to a stop when you turn it off.
I like using DD tables, so I would like this to be my main table. Is it a good choice? I am thinking about a Pro - Ject 9cc Evo tone arm.
I did get a v15 out of the deal which was worth the price of the TT.
Thanks for your help.
fortcollinsaudio.com
Follow Ups:
I have had a few. When clean and done right, they sound very good. Almost as good as a Denon DP-75 or 80.
The Denon plinth is OK (if it is the one in the DDM link) as a CLD plinth but the footers aren't great. It is worth changing them out and using almost anything else.
As to tonearm, a Micro Seiki MA-505, Victor UA-7045, or Denon DA-307 or Denon DA-309 would do the trick and can be found cheaply. The EPA-100 is, in my opinion, better than the Victor and Denon, and possibly better than the MS arm. It is a bit more expensive. Personally I prefer the MS and Victor over the Denon but really all three are OK.
As to whether it beats a 1200, it all comes down to what you do with it. Recapped and cleaned in a decent plinth with decent tonearm (like one of the above), it should.
Hey Thakk for the reply travisty.
Yes I have the plinth thats shown in the direct drive musem. Thats an understatement about the footers. Marshmellows would work better!
What a lovely tone arm - the Micro Seiki. I have a hard time getting a used tone arm. You are not sure of what has happened to it. Also the wiring is likely in need of upgrade. Thats why I was looking at the ProJect and I am now thinking of a SME.
Since I have a nice LP12 I am not being pushed to get this project moving. But soon I will take the DP6000 apart. and make a decision on the tone arm.
Thanks for the help.
Don Walker
Have a look at the thread here Bob has built an amazing plinth for his Denon http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?52797-Denon-DP-6000-plinth
Moko Thanks for the link. I'd love to hear the setup Bob has so that I would know where I am heading!
I like the looks of these: http://www.oswaldsmillaudio.com/Products/plinths-Others.html
I am also thinking of a ridge tripod - very much in the other direction.
But I must pick an tone arm. This is very hard. Still thinking the ProJect Evo is a deal and would work fine. But an SME might be fantastic.
Don Walker
My first post, just to say Hi really and welcome to the wonderful world of denon Dp6000s.
lets see if this works
Within its shade we'll live and die,
Though cowards flinch and traitors sneer,
We'll keep the red flag flying here.
Hi Bob,
I have been out hiking for a while. Thanks for the message. Do you have any pictures of your 6000? Any thought on setup?
I have yet to start on mine but I have been thinking and reading a bit.
Don Walker
Re the DP-6000 there is no need to reinvent the wheel here, 30+ years ago excellent plinths/tonearms were being used with the Denon and the latest creations arn't much if any improvement on those designs.
Anyone had experience with the ProJect 9cc Evo arm? Its at a price point that I can swallow.
Don Walker
You have a very nice direct drive turntable and I second everything Ed said. I advice you do further research and you might realize how fortunate you are to own the DP-6000. As for the tonearms Ed recommended I also fully agree, prices run around $1,000 for the EPA-100, it is an excellent tonearm and I know from experience owning one. Since you are capable of building a plinth, again with research you will find excellent advice for the DP-6000, check for the Mitch Cotter plinth. I have no experience with the Project tonearm, if you can at all afford the EPA-100 that would be my first choice.
Is one of Denon's all time best motor assemblies. It is sold as a motor only and the end result depends on the plinth that the motor is mounted in and the tonearm combined with the motor and plinth.
The DP-6000 is part of a series of motor only high end DD turntables sold by Denon in the 1970s (eg DP-5000, DP-3000, DP-2000, D-1000). It is in the same league as the Technics SP-10 models and justifies the addition of a very high quality arm. I cannot give an opinion on the Project arm but personally I would opt for a Technics EPA-100 or something equivalent.
The DP-6000 is getting very old and will require a recapping to keep the unit in working order. At its age this is not an elective step and the sooner you get it to a repair shop for a recap job, the better off you will be.
The DP-6000 sells for $500-$800 in Japan depending on quality of the unit and can be found in a wide range of plinths and combined with almost any arm you can imagine. The DP-6000 would not be out of place combined with a tonearm that costs thousands of dollars.
You are not likely to get many responses on the DP-6000 on this forum. The DP-6000 was rarely found in the USA and was not a popular model except for professional use.
Ed
We don't shush around here!
Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof
I have just read most of your site. Thanks for all the good info!
So the questions that come from response:
I believe my unit requires no oil, is that correct?
I do some repair work. Are the caps pretty easy to replace and what kind should I use?
I have the plinth picture on the DP 6000 on the link below. Is it not reasonable? I am a woodworker so I can make a Baltic Birch but there are so many projects.
Not sure my record collection would justify a 2K tone arm!!? (I might be better off buy more records)
You have some very nice TT on your site. A pleasure to view.
Thank you for your help. I have a Linn now but do not like spinning records on it, as the bounce of the TT and my shaky hands are not a good combo.
fortcollinsaudio.com
Any decent electrolytic caps would do the trick. When I recapped my Denon DP-62L I used low ESR Nichicons but I'm not sure that would make any difference.
Nichicons and Panasonic caps are high quality electyrolytics that can be had fairly cheaply so it seems pointless to try and go cheaper. The total cost for all the electrolytics for my DP-62L was under $40USD.
The bearing in that motor is designed as a sealed unit but at its age it could use a disassembly, cleaning and relube. If the DP-6000 is like the DP-62L motor there will be a small ball below the center shaft of the motor that rides in a cup. Carefully take apart the motor, taking care not to lose any of the parts (especially the little ball), carefully clean all of the parts and any dirt found within the motor, relube and reassemble the motor. Avoid any agressive cleaning fluids in the cleaning stage of the job.
Any good light weight oil should do but I prefer synthetics with PTFEs if possible (like synthetic Slick 50). If done properly you won't ever touch the motor again so using the best quality lube makes sense.
As far as the tonearm is concerned...I would set a budget and get the best quality tonearm I could afford within that budget. Your statement about whether your collection justifies the investment doesn't make sense if you do this turntable right.
A DP-6000 mounted in a baltic birch plinth with a high quality tonearm is a fine performer and will be a keeper. You will be hard pressed to find a better performing turntable anywhere near the investment you will have in this rig.
I don't want to sound like a broken record but this turntable is worth doing right. To achieve the same level of performance in a new table you would have to invest thousands of dollars and I doubt it could approach the DP-6000s rotational stability.
A used tonearm would be your best path. If you set that budget point then we could respond with an idea of which arm makes sense in that price range.
Ed
We don't shush around here!
Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof
I was lucky to find the DP6000. Ok I will view this as a project and not a quick fix. It may be summer before its done.
I was just starting a new pair of speakers, so my shop time is pretty full (besides the new stairs, a table for my GF).
I am not sure about going with a used Tone Arm. It seems like it could add more time and uncertain outcome. I am sure the Technics arm is great. Last night googled the SME arms. My car cost less.... So I still need to decide on a price I want to spend.
Thanks for all your exact info. Exploring the inner working of the Denon will be exciting.
Don Walker
Another option is to use the Linn arm off of my LP12 and sell the Linn without. Kind of hate to do this but it might be a cost effective solution. My Linn is on the Trader now - am also reconsidering not selling it...
Don Walker
This seemed like a reasonable post no comments?
I have been reading the current post and it seems that I have to put something about a 1200 to get a reply.
I really liked my 1200 but I sold it. I am hoping that the 6000 is as good as the 1200.
I have no experience with the 9cc.
fortcollinsaudio.com
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