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Hi,In my Eico HF-81, there is a film cap from the fuse to the chassis. Is this cap what guitar techs refer to as the "Death Cap"? If yes, should I remove it? What is its function.
Follow Ups:
I just read CometCKO's intelligent and worthwhile post, and figured I'd follow it up with a stupid and pointless one :-) Disclaimer: offered for humorous intent only.I wonder if there's some allure to an amplifier that, with a single, minor part failure, could become lethal? Sort of like eating fugu... you know, just that little tingle to the lips; just a touch of tetrodotoxin.
I think I'll go hop in the tub and fire up the old "AllAmerican Five" transformerless, hot chassis table radio.
This is a common arrangement on Eicos, afaik. I had one of their HF12s in my lab on a high shelf and, I assume because the chassis was hot, it was the only piece of consumer equipment that wasn't stolen over a span of more than a decade. Oh, yes, the power cord connection to the outlet was hidden........
This one is UL-approved, so-called class "Y" capacitor for this purpose, and self-healing. It's a simple swap & cheap insurance.http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=207383&e_categoryid=498&e_pcodeid=75016
It's a good idea to replace the power cord with one that is polarized at the same time. The cap should be connected to the neutral leg of the power cord.
You can test it (and your socket wiring) to be sure that it's wired correctly: the neutral terminal in your wall socket should be at zero potential vs. true ground. The neutral side of the plug will be the fat prong on a polarized plug, and should have the ribbed conductor attached if using standard AC wire. I bought mine at Home Depot as part of a heavy-duty extension cord for just a few bucks, cut off the female end and installed it in place of the 40-year old stock cord, using a larger strain relief.
Note that without a polarized plug, you have a 50% chance of plugging it in with the "hot" wire from your wall socket connected to the floating ground... It'll work fine, but if the suppression cap fails then it can kill you. You're much safer with a polarized plug! In combination with replacing the cap it's about as safe as it can be without going to a 3-wire (and circuit) modification.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the detaile reply. I will heed your advice.
If the cap shorts it can throw 120 volts to the chassis. If their is no high current path to short out to the other side of the line, then you have an energised hunk of metal looking for you to be a path to ground.
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