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In Reply to: RE: Alrighty then posted by airtime on January 31, 2017 at 07:49:19
Are you referring to noise generated after the outlet?
Before and after. Your system is a source of EMI/RFI noise. Myriad other devices on the power line are sources of EMI/RFI noise. All of it. :)
So it would seem to me that any noise cancelling effects would have to be at that outlet point.
Indeed there are enthusiasts who invest considerable funds into Oyaide outlets. As for me, I use heavy duty Leviton hospital grade outlets for their firm connectors.
Otherwise a good 12-14 gauge cord should be fine. being the rest of your house is wired with 14 gauge.
I'll continue to disagree with both assertions.
I've found audible benefits in many systems using aftermarket cabling of larger gauge and apparently you didn't pay attention to details in my post. Hint: the audio system has its own lines. And, FWIW, I had an electrician add a line to the closet in the garage which is also 12 gauge. :)
Follow Ups:
I never heard a difference in various power cords. I did hear a difference late at night. I assumed the 120 VAC line noise was reduced in my NYC setting after people went to bed. (I left NYC for MI a few years ago).I now install a Corcom line filter on my amplifiers.
Edits: 01/31/17
Other components in your system are likewise effected or generate RFI noise themselves like all digital critters.
Filters alone, however, with high powered amplifier don't address current issues.
Hi you guys,
All I'm trying to find out is why one side of the outlet delivers more or less voltage than the other side. I have not measured the difference yet on my Dyna-35 which has an old style plug with no ground prong and plug blades the same size.It does work fine either way it's plugged in.
I'm just trying to figure out the science behind this guys tip in Absolute Sound about turning your power cord plug upside down and why there are different voltages involved measured from the chassis.
I hope someone finds the article. Thanks for any info at all though. It's greatly appreciated....Mark K.
The situation you describe is primarily the result of asymmetric mains leakage to the chassis due to PT construction idiosyncrasies and/or the presence of a "death cap(s)". Personal experience indicates that there is indeed benefit to orienting the mains plug for minimum AC voltage betw chassis and electrical system ground while powered up AND coordinating the orientation of equipment to be interconnected such that all equipment is at lowest potential to ground while in isolation (before interconnects are added).
With everything properly oriented, I hear (and can measure) reduced noise and hum and not necessarily better sound as might be described as "higher highs", "blacker blacks", improved "PRAT" etc.
Obviously, it's usually bad form to defeat the grounding feature of 3 prong plugs by improperly using "cheaters".
Here are my guesses. First guess, it isn't the AC coming in, it is the unit's power transformer which isn't perfect. The chassis ground is the center tap of the secondary, which is going to have slightly different inductance to the poles.
Second guess, the AC may be a contributing factor if the waveform is asymmetrical.
Regarding the adding of grounded plugs to vintage equipment. I always do this, but leave it so that it can be detached. I have had a few instances that removing the third wire ground at the equipment end is the only way I could get rid of audible digital noise.
I'm a little slow today Mark, but are asking if there is any difference between measuring voltage between the hot and ground leg of the same receptacle? And this is because you have a non polarized older style plug?
Just a hint - don't get to wrapped up into those articles since you are dealing with a piece that was designed with that plug in mind. newer units do have polarized plugs BUT ! I can't tell you how many receptacles I've changed out over the years where the polarity was incorrectly hooked up. So you win a few and loose a few.
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