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Thanks again for your suggestion to replace the capacitors in the crossover, but I,do have a couple questions. My electronics knowledge needs some assistance, but I have searched the archives until I am blue in the face.
The original capacitors in the crossover are polarized, axial, electrolytics according to the schematic and pictures. Is it okay to replace this type with a metallized polypropylene capacitor of the same value that is not polarized?
Is your preference for the Dayton metallized poly caps because they may not change the high frequency presentation?
I do not plan to change the coils, but I thought the grille change may be a good idea. That crosspiece in the middle of the original grille may interfere with the tweeter, as may the grille fabric.
Follow Ups:
is very likely to be lower than the original capacitor. This would cause the tweeter level to be up a bit, and BRIGHT!
If there's a series resistor in the high-pass section , up its value a bit.
And I'd look at paralleling capacitors of descending value to make up the original total value.
Eg. a MF polycarbonate, then a MF polyprop, and then a teflon.
Might be cheaper, too.
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
I am using the full range circuit.
I
stay with that, as that may give you enough flexibility for treble level.
Are they wire wound R's?
And yes, it is simpler to use just one capacitor.
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
nt
Nothing more to add to the replies....seems everybody has
a favorite cap, I don't have any preferences really.
I run with grilles off (no pets) but I don't think that the grille
is a big issue.
to a polypropylene cap, especially a Solens, might change the high frequency response of the previously, stock, speaker. Did you ever get around to changing your capacitors? If so, did the sound seem to change? Thanks.
No, I've just looked at the networks, have not done anything. I guess
you can go ahead and get electolytics also (I use Bennics from Madisound)
since they're cheap and compare the two types. The mods I did find
several years ago online included replacing coils with larger ga.
air core units. I think the same mod you were reffering to. I wish
I would have saved that info. Probably do the resistors too, I don't
remember what all components are invoved, I'll have to go look again.
Yes I've heard things like to use an electrolytic with a PP bypass cap.
What works best with the HS's, have no idea.
gets you most of the way there, but you must NOT do it on a mobile device like an iPad. I used a late mother-in-law's PC and copied the whole page. I then put that into Babelfish and printed the translation.
Of course, the first thing you must do on the Japanese page is click on the symbol that shows a hammer and an open end wrench.
Then the last thing you have to do is translate the translation. Ha!
...but the capacitors used in crossovers should be bi-polar. I'd recommend replacing the caps with Audyn instead of Daytons, Bennic, or Solens. Having used all of them at one time or another I've found the Audyns to be the best of the lot. Leave the inductors alone. If there any resistors replace them with non-inductive types. Mills or Lynx are good options. Use at least 10 watt resistors.As for the grill, the grill cloth can certainly have an effect, but the grill frame as well as any raised cabinet edges and even the tweeter location on the front baffle will be sources of diffraction.
Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.
Edits: 01/29/17
when it comes to capacitors.
I also assume the Audyns you mentioned are not the copper foil or double layer 800V Audyn caps. Please let me know if I am wrong.
The resistors in the tweeter circuit are all the wirewound variety and are part of a five level high frequency attenuation.
Thanks again for your suggestions.
I was referring to the Audyn Q4 caps. Parts Express is one source, there are probably others.
Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.
nt
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