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In Reply to: RE: BIC 960 Turntable posted by Nadguy on December 14, 2011 at 08:26:54
I appreciate the thread; it's been helpful.
Although my 960 has the disc size problem, I can probably deal with that based on the info here, but I've got another one.
Regardless of the selector/program setting, when it comes time for the unit to cycle off, it places the tonearm on the record. It will never return it to the support. In general, it behaves as if it's operating properly, but out of phase.
I'd like to fix it, but I'm not sure it's worth taking a chance on messing the unit up. I can live with manual operation (it does pick the arm up at the end of play; it just won't put it in the rest).
Thanks.
Follow Ups:
That is caused by basically the same thing as the arm not landing where it belongs on records.
The two metal cam followers or levers are gummed up and can't move freely.
One of the followers controls whether the arm lands at the 12" position or the 7" position and the other one moves into position at the end to stop the arm at the arm rest.
Doug
I've done some work, and the tone arm and levers now appear to be working correctly to some extent. In the manual mode, the speed, set down, pickup and shut off all function correctly, as far as I can tell.
However, in any automatic or multiple play operation [and with either spindle], something is going wrong as the last record begins.
For example, with the tonearm in the support, if you select '1' and press play, the stylus is positioned above the record as the indicator moves to 'manual', but as the tonearm is lowered, the indicator moves down to the bottom of the range, and the machine shuts off with the stylus on the record.
I can't tell for sure what the cause is, and all help is greatly appreciated.
The way that works is the plastic pins that stick down from the big red cam operate the programing cam (which is also red plastic and has the teeth on it.
As the cycle is occurring, the programing cam gets pushed over and the programing extension (the metal rod from the program control - this is beginning to sound more and more like Monty Python \:^) moves one notch down in the metal base plate. The spring pulls it down one when the red programing cam tooth moves out of the way.
What SHOULD happen on the last record is the arm should move to the record edge first and then the control should then move to "MAN"
There was a production error with some of the big red cams. There should be two pins sticking down but they made some of them with three pins and that can cause the problem you're having because the third pin pushes the programing cam over an extra time and the program extension can then move down an extra notch each cycle.
Look to see how many pins are on your cam and get back to us.
Doug
Sorry for the delay, Doug.
The unit was purchased new and had a three-pin cam gear. Basically, it worked fine until the original drive belt [orange?] broke a long time ago.
At some point, I got a replacement belt, but I didn't realize the one I had been given was incorrect, and it wouldn't change speed. I thought something else was wrong, and the unit didn't get used much, so the changer mechanism got gummed up. Recently, I realized I'd been given the wrong belt, got a correctly-sized one and started trying to clean the unit up.
Sometime prior to your above post, I discovered the program rod was getting kicked out of the 'manual' position, but I wasn't sure why.
In the past, the unit had locked up several times and been forced free, and the rod looked bent. When I supported it manually, the assembly worked correctly, but I was unable to find a way to rig a permanent support that didn't interfere with the rest of the mechanism.
I thought I'd try to straighten the rod, but while I was doing that, either the turntable slipped, the gear turned or the levers flopped, and one of the pins was sheared off. So I had two-pin gear, but apparently the wrong two pins.
I've got a replacement cam gear (the two-pin type), and, at some point, I'm going to attempt to switch the trip pawl assembly from the original gear, install the new gear and try to make it work.
However, I have no idea what the fundamental cause is/was, and it still works manually, so I'm not overjoyed at the prospect. I've also got a bit of a rumble issue (one per rotation) that needs to be sorted out, so I'd like to do that at the same time. It may be related to the missing O-ring, collateral damage or something else entirely. I haven't got that far.
A brief aside- what is the right oil for the lever mechanism? I've used some 3-in-1 oil, I doubt it's optimal.
I sincerely appreciate the help.
Doug is right. If your BIC sets the arm on the record and then shuts off after the last playing you must comepletely disasemble and clean and lubricate the post with the levers and red plastic sensor plate. Reassemble and you will have cured the problem. Dennis
Can you tell me how to completely disassemble the BIC SP-65, Series Z, Serial number 551963-673-4979 which I assume is basically the same as the 960 in that regard. I need to get in there to fix a problem of the arm setting down at 7" rather than 12". I just don't know what to do to get into that area.
Thanks.
Harris
You all seem so knowledgable maybe you can help me.
I have a BIC SP-65, Series Z, Serial number 551963-673-4979 changer. I removed the snap ring from the center of the turntable but I can't pull it off no matter how hard I try! I sprayed some WD 40 in the area but no help! Am I missing something or is there another way to get into the guts of the machine so I can free everything up, possibly change the belt, etc.
Thanks,
Harris
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