Posted by bartc (A) on February 29, 2004 at 11:47:11
Well, my AC cord/strip was such a successful adventure (see recent Cable Asylum posts) that I decided to use my one remaining P&S 5262 outlet on the wall socket itself. Seemed like a no-brainer, given all the reviews here at Tweakers. Would add one more better link in the chain and would afford my CDP, plugged directly into it, some extra boost maybe.When I opened up the 37 year old box I found fortunately that the wiring was copper and in good condition, so I CAIG Progolded it and hooked it up as usual to the P&S outlet. Works fine and let's see how it burns in too.
The one fly in the ointment is that there were only 2 leads to the socket: hot and neutral! Absolutely no evidence that there ever had been any grounding. Now this was indeed a surprise, since every outlet in the house seems to have the 3 prongs. So what's the deal here?
My question is: do I need a ground (nothing sonically suggests that right now) and if I do need one, how do I hook it up without an electrician? In other words, can I just ground to the metal box itself in the wall and how? If so, what are the precautions. If not, what are your thoughts, oh great tweakers?
Running dedicated lines are out of my budget right now, so let's skip that suggestion, please....
Follow Ups:
- Re: Replacing AC outlets - a question on grounding. - Electric Monk 18:40:12 02/29/04
(1)
If you have a multi-tester put the set it to read VAC. Put the positive lead in the blade slot for the hot (black/red) wire and touch the black lead to the metal of the box. Do this with the outlet securely fastened to the box but with the cover off. If you get a reading near 120 VAC you have your answer. I would go so far as to take a new copper lead from the ground point on your new outlet and fasten it to the metal box in an appropriate place.
- Re: Replacing AC outlets - a question on grounding. - Batman 05:49:06 03/01/04
(0)
If you want the most reliable ground connection with your BX cable, go to Depot Maison and buy a grounding pigtail. It has a self-tapping screw that you simply screw into the outlet box in the rear and a wire that you connect to the ground screw of the outlet.
Bill's Audio Cave
- Re: Replacing AC outlets - a question on grounding. - hybwolf 16:28:48 02/29/04
(3)
Sounds like your home was wired with armored cable (BX). The steel armor acts as the ground. You can verify this by taking a look at the cables entering your panel. The cables should be visible if it is a surface mount panel. If not, a quick look at the cables running through the basement floor joist should give you a visual. The 5262 device is a standard number used in the industry. It also comes as a isolated ground format. Normally it would be listed as a 5262IG. If this is an isolated ground receptical, you need to install a jumper from the steel box to the ground terminal screw on the device. The metal yoke and the device's actual ground are isolated unlike a regular 5262 where the the device yoke and ground are the same.
- Details and then questions - bartc 18:08:33 02/29/04
(2)
The outlet is a Pass & Seymour LeGrand #5262I, where I understand the "I" is for the ivory color. Nowhere does it indicate "isolated ground". It's a standard 15 amp duplex; green grounding screw seems to lead to the grounding strap on the back, I think. House wiring isn't very visible, but where I can see it, it appears to be the metal flexy covered type. Is that the BX? Box in the wall nailed into the stud is metal. Only 2 wires: red/hot, white/neutral, which appear to be at least 12 AWG, possibly 10 AWG. The outlet itself is attached to the metal box by metal screws.
If this matches what you describe, how exactly do I attach it so as to effect a ground at the metal wall box, or do I even need to?
- Re: Details and then questions - hybwolf 18:55:06 02/29/04
(1)
The "metal flexy" is the bx cable so your fine there.
The 5262i is a standard device, so you are also fine there but make sure the little cardboard washers holding the device mounting screws in the yoke are removed. Although I would suggest adding a #12awg jumper from the ground terminal on the device to the box anyways. The box should have a threaded hole sized for a 10-32 ground screw. I only suggest the jumper because more often then not, the face of the metal box is not flush with the wall. So when the device is installed, the ears on the device rest on the sheet rock therefore preventing the device's yoke to sit tight against the metal box.
- Thanks for the help! Review so far. - bartc 20:30:01 02/29/04
(0)
Thanks to you guys for the help. This is my second AC DIY project, the first detailed in Cable Asylum was Alan's cord recipe into a 2 P&S duplex box to make a strip. Works beautifully and opened up my soundstage, greater details in all ranges, particularly in bass, tightened up response to dynamics which makes everything sharper and more realistic.
All my analog devices were hooked into that box, so I made the wall outlet swap to get a little extra for them and especially to get a better connection for my CDP, which was plugged into that wall outlet.
With only a half day on it, the CDP sound has improved as well. Did from after the first hour or so. I'm very pleased with these projects.
- Re: Replacing AC outlets - a question on grounding. - Schilke B1 11:52:40 02/29/04
(0)
Is the box metal? If so, when the outlets are mounted, you may get an automatic grounding.
