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After looking over numerous articles and posts, I want to give dry ice treatment at home a try. I have a few questions as to the process to the dry ice treatment of cables:Q# 1: Is there any condensation in the cables after the treatment?
Q# 2: If there is condensation (worried about shorting out my equipment), how do you get rid of the condensation?
Q# 3: Do you place the dry ice on the bottom of the cooler and then place the cables in a air tight sealed plastic bag directly "on top" of the dry ice? Or space the dry ice to the bagged cables?
Q# 4: During the treatment is the lid of the cooler completely sealed or do you put a hole in the lid for ventilation?
Q#5: I have a medium sized thick plastic Coleman cooler. When the lid is closed it seals the cooler. For anyone that has tried this treatment, do you think this cooler can be used for the dry ice treatment?
Q# 6: After the fridge thawing, how long does one wait until the cables can be used?
As I understand it, this is the process:
Need Large cooler and 5-7 pounds of dry ice (whichever will fit in the cooler).
STEP 1: Place cables in airtight ziplocked (with air removed) freezer bags.
STEP 2: Place bags of cables in fridge for 2 hours.
STEP 3: Take bags out of fridge and place then in the freezer for 6 hours.
STEP 4: Place dry ice at the bottom of the cooler.
STEP 5: Place 2 dry towels on top of the dry ice.
STEP 6: Put the bagged cables on top of the towels.
STEP 7: Place lid on the cooler.
STEP 8: After 24 hours or when the dry ice is gone, remove bagged cables from the cooler with thick gloves or tongs and place it in the freezer.
STEP 9: After 6 hours or so, remove bags from freezer and place it in the fridge for another 4 or so hours.
STEP 10: Remove bags from fridge, wrap in a dry towel. Let thaw at room temp. for another 6 hours.
Any other comments or suggestions are eagerly welcomed, especially from the members that have actually tried this treatment/tweak. Thanks so much for your time!Best Regards,
Follow Ups:
Save your cooler for beer. Dry ice can't take the temperature down low enough to make any lasting change in the molecular structure.I had Jena Labs do a pair of Audioquest Anaconda I/C's and an outlet for me. Both were greatly improved. I highly recommend them, or someone else who is set up to cryo properly.
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Why not just try Cryo treatments. he cost is not much annd alot less trouble.It also goes further down than Dry Ice in temp.
If you do happen to try Cryo I would go with an experienced co. that has dealings with audio equiptment like Ray Kimber, Cryo Intl. or Jena Labs.
Good luck!
I went to the Kimber and Jena Labs site. I could not find any pricing on Cyro treatment. Have you had any of the above companies do any of the above work for you?
Go to BolderCables.com and Wayne will have Kimbers Facility do the Cryo treatment.JenaLabs also does it. Cryogenics Intl. also does it!
http://www.boldercables.com/
http://jenalabs.com/
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I would recommend Controlled Thermal Processing, Inc.
703 Rogers St.
Downers Grove, Ill. 630/852-6548
Website www.metalwear.com.In '98 I had a pair of speaker cables, interconnects (w/Vampire OFC RCA's), transistors and misc. caps and R's cryo'd with very excellent results. I dealt with Rick Diekman, V.P. and had a very long and interesting talk with Rick, he loves to discuss and supply anecdotal info. The R's I sent were 2 values of Rikenohm 1/2w R's and I compared them to the non-cryo'd Rikenohm R's in the feedback circuit of my preamp. The difference was startlingly goodwith the cryo'd R's. The only way to go.
In '98 they charged by weight : $9.50/lb. I highly recommend them.
nt
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I appreciate the info. Unfortunately if the URL is correct, the website is no longer there. Would you by chance have a phone number for Metal wear?
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