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I built two pairs of the interconnects Chris Venhaus describes on his site. PRetty much followed his instructions by the book, plus read a few recent updates here (hotglue, cotton twine instead of cotton balls, etc.)I built a pair of 12" interconnects for CD to Pre-amp and then a pair of 42" (well, one channel is shorter, but more about that later).
some photos of the project are on a web page I just put up to keep track of my system changes/improvements at
http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/index.html
beer can on the images is for scale only :-)
Two weeks ago I completed the DIY cat-5 speaker cable bi-wire project, and the improvement in terms of imaging and sound stage detail were dramatic. It wasn't hard to justify the $100 it would take to build the interconnects to improve the signal path from CD to amps after hearing this, plus I read it was easier to build these ICs than it was to do the speaker cables.
In terms of difficulty building these ICs, I would rate the part of wrapping teflon tape around the silver wire the hardest, especially the first few times when you don't have much practice yet. It was good to start with the really short wires.
I use duct tape to hold things in place, plus a really basic jig I clamped to the kitchen table. See photos for that.
The materials I bought were $40 for the 0.008" teflon coated pure silver wire, $20 for two sets of Dayton Audio RCA plugs (I may try some better plugs once I get other parts in my system upgraded), about $5 for 8 rolls of teflon plumbers tape (got 3 left over), $1.59 for a roll of cotton twine at Wallmart, and about $2 for heat shrink tubing, plus about $25 for 25ft of teflon tubing (got plenty left over for more ICs), plus about $4 for some good silver solder. I also got 25 feet of 32awg copper transformer wire to try this recipe with considerably cheaper wire for less critical connections (tape deck, computer)
Tools I needed:
volt meter
knife (to cut tube, strip silver wire insulation)
coat hanger (to stuff twine into tube)
scissors (cut twine, siver wire)
tweezers (to pull silver wire out of tube end)
tiny drill (for holes to feed wire inside tubing at ends)
soldering iron
small clamps
some long pieces of wood trim, two short blocks
two large wood screws that fit into hose ends
duct tape for everything else
candle (for heat shrink)Initially I tried to push too much twine into the tubes at once. I learned to reduce the batch size and was able to get it packed nice and tight without air space.
Wrapping the sliver wire around the tube was pretty easy, except I didn't have enough room to use the wire straight off the spool. I had to guess the length I needed to get to the other end and cut off that much. I wasted a few inches of precious silver wire that way.
Wrapping the teflon tape required to take one end of the wire off my jig, but once I figured out which way I had to unroll the tape to keep tension, it worked quite well. Plus, I was surprised how well this tape clings to the tube. I only recall using this tape in pipe threads and it was quite a pain for that application. I put 4 layers of this tape on the tube, plus a few extra layers on the ends once I had put the hot glue into the tube ends with the wire ends in their final location.
Soldering the tiny ends was pretty easy with the Dayon Plugs, and the heat shrink was real fun to apply - I had no idea about this stuff before reading about these DIY cables. A candle works just fine to get the rubber to shrink to size.
The second set of wires was for my preamp to mono blocks and had to be much longer. When I was cutting the silver wire for the first one, I did my math: 3.5x4 = 14 ft, plus 1.5x4 = 6 - total 20 feet. I had 5 feet of wire to spare. Well it turns out, that I actually had to use 4.5feet for the 3.5 feet, which put me to 18 feet for the two long interconnects. Add 6 feet plus the amount I wasted in the initial guess work to get the right lenght for the 1 foot interconnects, and you'll see why my second long interconnect is actually 4" shorter than the other...
I still completed them and tired them out before taking the longer one apart again to match them both at 3 feet 2" which was tight, but still usable on the left monoblock.
But now the best part - what did these ICs do for me? I first replaced the typical $12 Ratshack gold interconnect from CD to preamp, something like 4 feet of it while only 1 foot was needed. The short piece I made was almost too short to be bent without getting a kink in the tubing, but after a short period of bending it let me connect it. The Dayton Audio plugs need to be uncrewed to actually slide on, which wasn't so easy afer having heat shrink all over them... I cut back the rubber and was able to secure the cable well.
I powered up the CD player, put in the favorite testing CDs, and listened in awe. Considerably more bass! Detail in the high range was dramatically improved. Almost as big of a step as the cat-5 speaker wire.
Then I powered down again to hook up the new ICs from Pre-amp to Odyssey monos. The original wire there was the same kind of $12 type RCA, but it was separated into two solo runs, and not curled up in a ball.
Listening to this, I noticed another increase in resolution, but not as dramatic as with the short CD player IC. Perhaps the different lengths of the wires had some minor impact here, or the system is sounding so well overall that it is getting harder for any one single change to make as big of an impact as previous improvements did.
I matched the RCAs in length and didn't notice any difference before/after. I made sure the silver wire was spaced exactly as prescribed, so maybe it's a matter of the Dayton plugs, some poor soldering, or my ears just were out for lunch when I made the change.
Still, the overall impact on the system was rather dramatic. I can't imagine spending commercial prices on interconnects. Actually, a few months ago I would have shied back from spending $100 on the part s to make these wires. The cat-5 project showed me how much wires can affect the sound of a system, and that's why I decided to move ahead with the ICs. I was pleasantly suprised by the result. Now I'm wondering what a $80 pair of RCA plugs could do better than the $10 Daytons. Anyone do a direct comparison with this type of IC?
DIY power cords are next - I have all the parts needed for 4 different cords (2 mono blocks, 1 CD player, 1 pre-amp). I'll report back with the impact on my system.
Peter
Follow Ups:
Glad to hear your success, but may I suggest some other alternatives if u don't consider reselling your gear.
I would unhood the power amp and replace the signal cable (usually poor quality multi-stranded) into the silver solid core wire u brought, unless the female RCA is directly PCB mounted.
And would use a heavier gauge solid core as interconnects eg 22 awg's AQ Topaz, or simply left over 18-20 awg's coaxial 75 ohm cable silver plated or not. This way the extreme upper and lower frequencies originated from preamp is better deliver to power amp.
Your present configuration could be a bit bass light and mid range could be sharp shooted, extension to the upper and lower frequecies restricted due to the narrower gauge used, esp teamed with maggie 3.6
My experience to better fidelity is to maintain a thicker gauge upstream in all solid core interconnect setup taking into account the flying signal cables inside component.
Hope this helps
Happy holidays ahead
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female RCA is right on the board. No go on the pre-amp. Power amp is slated for the Mega Klaus upgrade in a few months, so I won't mess with that. There will be an active crossover in the path when they come back with a pair of brothers (4 monos), which is also when I'll need a few more IC'sThe pre-amp is also going to be replaced soon - a Bottlehead Foreplay is planned for late winter, and in spring, I think I may compare it with an Odyssey Tempest.
I was thinking of directly connecting the ICs to my current pre-amp because it has some sort of flaky problem that when cold I sometimes lose my left channel until i wiggle on the wire (the purists in the audience CRINGE!) - indicating that the PCB mounted RCA females cannot be connecting very well at all.
Now, the whole pre-amp isn' such a hotshot deal right now (Yamaha C-85) so I may just take a dremel and go to work on the RCA's - replace them with nice Cardas or WBT units, which I'll wire to the PCB myself. Maybe.
As for not bass heavy overall - dunno what my old IC's were doing, but adding the silver connects, I had a significant increase in bass.
I'll play with some transformer wire ICs soon (Tape deck, other devices) and will compare those with the silvers, possibly at different gauges. I'll also be getting some Eichman Bullet RCA plugs - getting good reviews for the relatively low $$$
thanks
I got a package of the regular Bullet Plugs for about $40 US - lots of money for what you get in terms of "stuff" - people who care about heavy duty big monster gold plugs won't like these leightweight plastic plugs.I removed the dayton audio plugs and started attaching the Eichmans. Soldering goes really well because there's a lot less metal to heat up on the plug. However the way these are designed, they don't secure the big teflon tubewire exiting in the back as well as the Daytons. I ended up cutting upen my heat shrinks about 4 times before Ifinally had all the plugs connected AND attached to the amp and pre-amp. In spite of tight heat shrink over wire and almost the entire Eichman plug, I managed to break/twist off some part of the wire multiple times. When I was done, my silver interconnects were also 2" shorter :-) Next time I'll know better.
SO in terms of durability, this design needs much more caution than the Eichmans. But this is about sound, not a wire to go on a road trip with.
I swapped the plugs on the conenction from Pre-amp to mono blocks. I also wired up some new female RCA (Dayton Audio) plugs on the back of the preamp with fine silver wire going straight to the PCB. I did not open the Odyssey Monos to do the same in there, since those are going back to Klaus' shop for an upgrade soon anyway.
Still - I put in my favorite CDs and had a listen. I didn't expect much, but the sound was dramatically clearer. I heard clicks on mater tapes I had not heard before (is that a good thing? ;-)), buzzing in guitar amps used in the studio, etc... Voices much cleaner, bass more defined - almost "less bass" - is that what somebody warned me about? It seems that the critical bass passages my maggies didn't manage to play without "ribbon flap" in the past are now much better defined, and the flapping occurs in a diminished nature at the same volume setting.
I went back to some standard cables to see if this had anything to do with the preamp internal rewiring, but those cables were so bad, that everything sounded flat, blobby, undefined and simply aweful. I can't believe I used those cables only a month ago and thought I was in sonic heaven... I forgot to mentionthat I also swapped teh stock power cord on the preamp with a VenHaus design (big fat cord for flimsy original 2-prong). I also treated the inside metal surfaces of the pre-amp with a spray-on sound deadener (like that Noize Killer from Fosgate you can't get anymore). No idea if it made a difference, since I changed so many things during the same day, but I don't think it had a negative impact other than the resale value of the pre-amp. Not that a $150 ebay-Yamaha c-85 is worth much without these mods...
I spent some time listening last night - until I fell asleep in my listening chair. It was pretty awesome.
My next step will be to build some copper versions of these interconnects - because I need 4 pair of these, and the cost of plugs and silver wire actually turns this into a rather expensive DIY project. If the copper version sounds close to Silver, I'll go with that (saving about $100 in silver wire).
I also have to build more power cords for a Risch-design Power source kit, plus my upcoming second pair of monos. The power cord building is considerably more fun than the IC projects, but I have to say that I have barely noticed a difference betweent the stock (rather fat) power cords on my Odyssey's and the VenHaus air-hose mono design AC cords. The CD player cord perhaps made the biggest difference in that area.
Soon I'll run out of cord projects - that's when it's time for the Bottlehead Foreplay kit :)
It seemed like a loose fitting of the IC's RCA males with the preamps's females, not so of a problem of females with the PCB.
But then I agree that the females are not of highest quality and might be eroded out after a few more IC swapping.
I think a purist would rather swap an identical RCA female replacement rather than to upgrade with additional coloration of a cable inserted in-between.
Happy experimenting with cables and wires!
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Just wait until they burn-in. The detail that is being thrust at you now will start to take on a more natural place in the music. It's hard to explain, but I'm sure you'll hear it, along with improvemnnts across the board. BTW, incase you can't tell I love these ICs and have made different varaitions of them to try to voice the cable to my system. If you are serious about upgrading the RCAs the Eichman Bullet Plugs were head and shoulders above the Cardas and Kimber plugs I tried in my system...and cost considerably less I have been using Chris's speaker cables and silver ICs for over a year. I'm just now getting the materials to try both flavors of his PCs. Good luck with your connector upgrade, and Thank You Chris!!!
Julien Therrien
jntherrien@msn.com
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great to hear from someone who tested more than one flavor of RCA plugs. I may do the Eichman plugs when my bi-amping project goes into high gear and interconnects from CD to preamp, from pre to crossover, and from crossover to 4 mono blocks will be needed.I may try just one of them for the CD to pre-amp first.
as for burn-in - they've been running mp3's for a few days straight, but I am wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to hook up a light bulb and a few batteries for a day or two, since the voltages are consistently higher then, especially for pre-amp to mono blocks (burning in at full volume could get a bit out of hand :))
And yes - thank you Chris - there's no way I'd spend $1000 on this stuff from brand name manufacturers, even knowing how much of a difference it makes. I'd just have to settle for less, but using this recipe, I am enjoying detail detail detail - sometimes too much: one of my friend's favorite classical CDs turned out to have clipped vocals - icky stuff when you can hear it that clearly, at any volume (not my amp!) :)
Off to home depot - forgot that I needed high pressure air hoses for the mono-block power cords!
I have extra air hose left over from a similar project. Email if you're interested:
james.dombrowski@compuware.com
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just bought 50 feet at the home depot - they were out of the cut-to-size stuff... looks like I'll have some hose left over as well :-)
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