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This is how the shelves were put together. I used 3/4" MDF. Two outside pieces of 42" x 13", and 4 pieces of 13" x 13" to act as the shelves and top and bottom. The 13x13 pieces are sandwiched between the two outside pieces. Each shelf has two screw/bolts per side holding them in (3 inches in from the ends). The bolt-screws are hex slotted (see below). They are thicker than average screws, almost like a lag bolt with a hex shaped slot.
I pre-drilled holes and hand-tightened all the shelves in place (much, much stronger and tighter than regular wood screws. On the back, I tacked a cut piece of hardboard (in doing so, I minorly split the MDF at the back-top of each of the side panels...hairline split).
At the bottom of the unit, I fastened 4 casters with 3/4" 10 screws. The casters are on the bottom 13x13 piece, not overlapping to the side panels for fear of splitting them.
It feels very solid. I was putting alot of my own weight on it to see how solid it is, and it appears to hold up well (I weigh 200 lbs). Now here is why I am asking all of this. After I was finished (of course after), I started getting cold feet about putting my records in it. As the unit is held together by these large screw/bolts, the weight of the unit isn't really sitting on anything. It is just pressure holding it all together, albeit tightly and strongly. Now, when it is sitting on the casters, the weight of everything is just suspended on each of the shelves being held by the bolts. Should I be concerned about the shelves pulling away from the sides? With all the records in place, I would guess I'd have about 15-25 lbs per shelf. I don't want to put my good vinyl on them only to walk in one day and see it collapsed with all my LPs broken.
What do you think?
Great suggestions so far, however, you may also wish to add a support beam going from one corner to the opposite (kitty corner) using maybe a 1" X 4" or 2" X 2" Fir/Larch. Used on the back side behind the hardboard, glued with "Liquid Nails" or "Beats Nails", and screwed into the 3/4" MDF (pre-drilled), will greatly improve shear strength. The cost of materials should be less than $3.00.Let us know how it goes!
Brian
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Please remember that your design is vulnerable to collapsing sideways. It is as strong as the screws in the particle board. A simple metal bar running from the top left to the bottom right would greatly strengthen it, or you could put a back plate on it with holes for plugs.
The redeeming aspect of your design is that it is narrow and the shelves are not likely to sag.If there is a problem, it is where it is most likely with the bottom shelf. The bottom shelf is carrying the full load and it is being suspended above the casters. The easiest adjustment is to add a 1X1 or 1X2 on edge along the front and rear edges of the bottom shelf. You may want to mount the casters on plywood blocks that are glued to the bottom shelf.
In the future as much glue as possible. MDF is notorious for not holding fasteners. Be wary of moving the cabinet by the sides!
DaveT
I'd suggest trying to put "outriggers" on casters for stability. Maybe a larger bottom plate or a cross out of 2x2.Gordy
Glue those shelves in place and screw it together tightly. Lots of glue - everywhere where wood touches wood.
The rack looks good. I think that your saving grace is that the rack is somewhat narrow. I don't think that the shelf would hold if the shelves were wider (and therefore loaded more).MDF is strong under compression (a "squeezing" kind of load) but is weak under tension ("pulling" load). Your vertical parts of the stand are loaded in compression. They'll never fail. However, what worries me are the ends of the shelves. Since the screws go into the edge of the shelves, only the MDF *above* the screws (probably about 1/4" of material) is holding any weight. Not only that, but the critical point of loading is in tension, where MDF is quite weak.
Also, the bottom of the shelf is critical too. You've got the entire weight of the top shelves resting on a very thin section of MDF at the base.
I suggest the following modification:
Cut some narrow strips of MDF that are as long as your shelves are deep. They should be about 2" wide. Securely glue these strips right under the edge of each shelf, so that the weight of the shelf rests on them.
In the future, the best way to make a shelf like this is to use a router or dado blade in a table saw to make slots in the vertical peices for the shelves to slide into. Even a narrow slot will make a VERY strong joint.
Allan
The only concern I see is your bottom shelf.
It could have been one and a half inch longer
so the weight of the sides could rest on it,
screwing it in from the bottom. You could still
do that by adding another layer under the bottom
shelf, extending out to cover the weight of sides.
That takes all the weight off the screws..Hope this helps.
I have one more shelf cut to 14.5x13. I thought about adding it to the bottom for extra support, but I didn't really want to just for aesthetic purposes. I can still add it, but if I can get away without it, I would like to.
Realize that their is only about 1/4" of wood between
the bottom screws and the floor and it is carrying the
weight of 2 shelves.
OK...you got me thinking about the bottom board. A few mentioned it as the "weak link". I also believed it to be the weak link. Can I add this 14.5 x 13 piece to the bottom (screw & glue it together), and then attach the casters to the double-bottom plate? The 14.5 x 13 board would overlap the sides now. I would also be able to move the casters closer to the edges of the unit, thereby taking more weight off the bottom shelf. Would that be enough?I could also take the casters off and turn the unit on its side and put the casters on the long side. Fortunately for me, I also have a spot that would be perfect for that configuration as well (a reason I built it to these dimensions in the first place). Would this unit on its side be more secure than if it was standing up with the 14.5 piece at the very bottom?
Their are many easy solutions to this situation.
If it doesn't look bad, move the castors to the end
where two screws are in the vertical, and two are on
the bottom shelf. It would be better if you can get some
2 inch wide, pre drilled, metal flat-stock from the hardware store
to bridge the underside. Even "Flat-L" brackets will do,
and they won't even show. The Hardware personnel can
help you select the size for this application.
Laying it long ways would solve everything. Good Luck.
Added the bottom shelf (14.5 x 13). Glued and screwed it to the bottom 13 x 13 piece and the 42 x 13 sides. I put the casters back about 3/4 inch inside all four corners. By doing all that, am I solid now? Can I put all my LPs on the rack without fear of it crumbling?BTW, thanks for the help.
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