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In Reply to: Re: OPamplifiers, Replacements posted by John S. on January 05, 2002 at 04:36:26:
I have no IC-remover.
How can I in a smart way unsolder
a DIL8 OP?
Your tip is good,
hard to find a better!
Thanks!
Follow Ups:
It really is worth investing in the proper tools. You can get an IC shaped bit for your soldering iron that heats all 8/16 pins up at the same time. Then pull out using the U tool suggested by John S. Finally, use a solder sucker to clean out the holes. Be very careful if the board is multiplayer and has plated through holes as manufacturers often use component leads for top/bottom connections. I have often seen the connection disappear up the solder sucker! You should also think about a lead dresser for ICs that square up the pins on each side to the correct pitch. They are not expensive. Alternatively, buy an inserter that acts like a syringe and also lines up the pins. I use a conducting plastic one which helps prevent static damage.Hope this helps.
Brian
I bought 20 NE5532 for almost nothing.
Maybe I could use one of these
as this CD-player is not top of line.And the 100uF elyts is also removed!
Why use such, when there are
10-22uF Polypropylens for little money?
I can't understand Pioneer's Thinking about
putting them at Audio Output.
Can you?When I unsolder I use:
low watt iron, 15w
sucker
a tiny flat point screwdriver*I heat up, suck solder from legs, as good as I can
*heat again, while putting the screwdriver
with gentle push, between board and IC
*same again, but with screwdriver at other end of IC
*repeating the last 2 steps, until IC comes off
I'd stay away from the 5532/5534 bunch.After hearing a nice improvement in sound quality when I changed these out.These were the analog output devices in my old Sony ES player.I was happy with OP275's,but I didn't try a lot of others.I'd say stick to JFET types. Look through Analog Devices lineup and you'll find several.
I use a low wattage iron(about 10w)and a solder sucker.It usually takes a couple of times with the sucker to get enough of the solder away from each pin,so that you can finally free the IC from the board.Once you've gotten the IC out,check eack hole for leftover solder,etc..Make sure each one is clean.Look at each of the solder pads and if there's any excess solder,go at it with the solder sucker.Install sockets,watching for the notch on end to correspond to what was on the board.Sometimes they're marked on the board.Actually, that's the very first thing to do.I'm assuming you'll be reading whole post before doing. Now some folks get really tweaky and couldn't stand to have that socket in there,but if it doesn't bother you,bend the socket leads over so that they touch the solder pads,or get close.This will help hold the socket in place while you're moving the board around and will help improve the contact between socket and board.Solder the socket in place and get ready to install the new IC. Installing and removing IC's is tricky.Some people use special tools.It's VERY easy to bend the pins and screw one up.Look at the IC and make sure all the pins are straight and in line.I hold the chip by each end and get one row started and then gently push the chip so the other row can fit into the socket.You'll see what I mean.Trying this a couple of times on something else is a good idea.Once you have both rows engaged in the socket,make sure it's seated. When it comes time to remove one,I try to carefully pry up each end a little bit at a time until I can pull it free with fingers.There is a tool for removal that's U shaped and grabs under each end.It works. This stuff CAN be done.Be careful and take your time.It takes a while to get all the connectors marked and unplugged so that the board can come right out.You might get lucky and have one that will tip over without disconnecting everything.
Hi,The common way any service technician has done it for the last 20 Years at least is to use a solder sucker....
Later T
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