Tweaker's Asylum

• Hola Homer...... - Jose Garcia 06:34:38 01/04/02 (3)
  In Reply to: thanx to all fellow tweakers,diyumas awesome posted by homer on January 03, 2002 at 21:44:16:

  James, congratulations on your tweaking adventures. It is fun to work around with all these possible tweaks. Try a pair set of Diyumas under your speakers with some weight/load over the speakers. Be careful in their initial placement , they are shaky at the beginning. You will loose some bass definition but mids/highs are more open, clear, extended and detailed.

  What concave knobs and where do you found them?

  Thanks,

  Jose Garcia.
  
  

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  • Re: Hola Homer...... - homer 06:47:12 01/04/02 (2)
    In Reply to: Hola Homer...... posted by Jose Garcia on January 04, 2002 at 06:34:38:

    well, i haven't put the set together with these knobs yet,but they seem like since they are so much bettere quality,that it should be better.they are made by Belwith in USA. part#p204-B.

    i found them at a local Ace hardware in the S.F. bay area.

    Have been also thinking of drilling MDF and filling with lead shot.think that would help any?

    james

    
    
    

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    • Re: Hola Homer...... - MVA 21:57:27 01/04/02 (0)
      In Reply to: Re: Hola Homer...... posted by homer on January 04, 2002 at 06:47:12:

      The ones at Home Depot ($.88) have a rounder surface, the ones at Aco have a distinct point at the center. I have been inbedding the pull post in Ebony wood with Duco Stik-Tak (Acos version of blu-tak). They are an awesome tweak that cost next to nothing to make.
      
      

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    • Ok, those are the ones I'm using and yes they are better and... - Jose Garcia 07:03:14 01/04/02 (0)
      In Reply to: Re: Hola Homer...... posted by homer on January 04, 2002 at 06:47:12:

      don't have the dimple in the middle.

      Tweaks:
      1-Speakers....take two 3/4" thick pieces of MDF/wood about the size of your speakers bottom. Drill both shelves with a triangle configuration. The holes should hold the knobs prungs. Glue the knobs to the shelves and make a sandwich (face to face) with metal bearings in between. Put the devise on your stands and the speakers over it. Load the top of the speakers with some weigh. You can use two knobs in the back and one in front with the separation calculated based on the stands base.

      2-Rollers....buy (3) 1" copper end caps (looks like cups). Feel them with sand or lead shot. Deep the knobs into the cups and glue with epoxi the underside of the knobs to the edges of the caps. Check they are balanced. There you go, a 10 min. Round Rollers...Ah! use 3 bearings....

      Regards,

      JOse.
      
      

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• Re: thanx to all fellow tweakers,diyumas awesome - groman 21:51:14 01/03/02 (3)
  In Reply to: thanx to all fellow tweakers,diyumas awesome posted by homer on January 03, 2002 at 21:44:16:

  I am happy for you!
  But what about the amplificator upgrade?
  Will you do that in the future?
  And how are you using drawer pulls?
  

  
  
  

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  • Re: thanx to all fellow tweakers,diyumas awesome - homer 22:47:13 01/03/02 (2)
    In Reply to: Re: thanx to all fellow tweakers,diyumas awesome posted by groman on January 03, 2002 at 21:51:14:

    there will be an amplifier in my future.as of now i have an nad c340 witha YBA Integre cdp,mmf-7 TT,and JM Labs cobalt 820's.i am squeezing almost every ounce out of my system,now.i also intend to build the jon risch power filter/surge protector soon.

    i have found more solid pulls than the concave type at home depot.will imbedd them in 1" MDF and bondo all the open areas.thinking about vibrapods under them for vertical isolation.

    the quest continues
    
    

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    • best to use a sandwich of varying density materials as - snkby 02:11:13 01/04/02 (1)
      In Reply to: Re: thanx to all fellow tweakers,diyumas awesome posted by homer on January 03, 2002 at 22:47:13:

      a mechanical vibration filter.

      heres what my sandwich looks like from top to bottom :

      component
      component foot
      3/4" thick wooden puck
      door-pull
      1.25" steel bearing
      door-pull
      1" thick delrin
      1/8" thick rubber
      1/4" thick aluminum
      beer coaster :)
      3/4" hdf shelf

      im certain it could be better but im done tweakin it for a while. ;)

      i am also about to build jon rischs power filter !! :)

      good luck.
      

      
      
      

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      • Great(?) cheap materials - groman 06:06:51 01/04/02 (0)
        In Reply to: best to use a sandwich of varying density materials as posted by snkby on January 04, 2002 at 02:11:13:

        Hello, fellow!
        Gave you a feedfback based on your system. 4 out of 5.
        This sandwich, isn't it a little to extrem??
        Olen rasp??? I have one KA-7100, great! But
        one of the TO3:s is blown.
        Thinking of building 3-way active, with
        2x3 TDA2050.
        I have only original-feets on my Technics SL-PS7 CD-player
        as well as on my Harman Kardon HK650, integreted Amp.

        My favorite-material is: LIGGUNDERLAG, swedish
        don't know the english word, Please Help Me!
        It is that thing you put under sleepingbag when
        sleeping in tent. It is cellplastic, frigolit/styrolit
        and is rolled to a tube, carried on the back-pack.
        I use it for to decouple everything, instead
        of expensive feets.

        Another cheap solution is MOUSE-PADS.
        The little carpet used to roll the mouse on.
        Should make great feets, in 1-2-3 layers,
        depending on the weight of equipment.
        
        

        
        
        

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