Tweaker's Asylum

• Re: flexiholes - cfraser 19:11:01 10/26/01 (5)
  In Reply to: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 02:49:10:

  I only used 3/4" rod, and drilled the holes 3/4". The threading on the rods acts like a file when feeding through: a nice tight fit, no real problem. The guy who the other day said they're called "flexi" because they wobble hasn't seen mine. Very solid. (Called "flexi" because the shelf spacing is flexible.) Can you not drill a test hole in some scrap first? BTW, MDF kills spade bits. I'd say after 20-24 holes (at 3/4") the bit is pretty much toast as far as edge goes.
  
  

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  • Flexys flex, Salamader clones do not - Edp 08:00:01 10/28/01 (1)
    In Reply to: Re: flexiholes posted by cfraser on October 26, 2001 at 19:11:01:

    same construction except that the holes are larger and uses a rubber or like material between the washers and shelves on the Flexy.

    Flexy moves/wobbles by design
    Salamander clones do not wobble by design.
    I also think that true Flexys are 3 rods not 4, my definition.
    Both designs haveidentical flexible shelf height placements

    You can only tell the differnce by touching, not by looking.
    
    

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    • Thanks for pointing that out, I had no idea - cfraser 12:01:15 10/28/01 (0)
      In Reply to: Flexys flex, Salamader clones do not posted by Edp on October 28, 2001 at 08:00:01:

      that a true Flexi had larger rod holes so it could flex a bit. I would have totally hated that, regardless of how it sounds. Thank goodness I missed that construction detail... So I guess I have a generic threaded rod rack.
      
      

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  • That's exactly what I did - sandoval 03:38:03 10/27/01 (0)
    In Reply to: Re: flexiholes posted by cfraser on October 26, 2001 at 19:11:01:

    I just drilled 3/4inch then put in the 3/4inch rod. Very solid but definately put your heaviest stuff on the bottom.
    

    • Flexy in cherry

    
    

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  • Re: flexiholes - Ortem 23:48:27 10/26/01 (1)
    In Reply to: Re: flexiholes posted by cfraser on October 26, 2001 at 19:11:01:

    Even with 1/8th of an inch over size, I can't imagine that this design is going to flex at all.

    *Evil chuckle*

    I'll bore you all with pictures when I'm done.

    I think I might actualy try to get an extra long spade bit I saw for sale at the same branch of OSH.

    I have a feeling I might have problems lining the holes up with the bars if they're not absolutely identicly spaced.

    Rob.
    
    

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    • Re: flexiholes - cfraser 00:45:24 10/27/01 (0)
      In Reply to: Re: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 23:48:27:

      Perhaps not. My flexi has 4 legs, so I made a hole template, hole centre 1.5" in from the edges - easy. I also sat on it when completed (I'm 140 lbs, flexi 8 shelves ~4.5' tall, I forget flexy dim. exactly, I'm heavier than most components). FYI, the Home Depot iron-on veneer works excellently, if straight-on shelf looks ever becomes relevant...

      Don't fret on the hole spacing too much, make a template...uneven spacing makes solidity (stiffness, etc....) unless you're WAY out.... (please try not to be ).
      
      

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• the whole story - dave c 13:31:28 10/26/01 (0)
  In Reply to: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 02:49:10:

  With a spade bit, first make a small mark with a bradle or even just a large nail. That way you can "feel" the point of the bit into the right position. Are you using a bench mounted drill? Its much more accurate especially for getting it vertical.
  Drill in a little and come out. Do this a few times as you go through, it allows the bit to clear better.
  If you put a scrap piece of wood or something similar under the MDF, you won't get tear out from the underside.
  Use a high speed for the drill and don't force the bit into the MDf, let the blades do the work.
  It only takes a few seconds to do so its better to do it right!
  
  

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• Re: flexiholes - DaveT 09:05:24 10/26/01 (1)
  In Reply to: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 02:49:10:

  This should be perfect. This provides for 1/16-inch clearance all the way around. If using a spade bit drill part of the way through until the tip of the spade is out the other side. Flip the material over and complete the hole. This method minimizes tear out.

  
  Dave Toatley
  
  

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  • Re: flexiholes - Ortem 12:29:11 10/26/01 (0)
    In Reply to: Re: flexiholes posted by davet on October 26, 2001 at 09:05:24:

    So how should the hole be started off?
    Is it okay to just go straight to it or does there need to be a pilot hole?

    Rob.
    
    

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• Re: flexiholes - Jerry P 07:19:25 10/26/01 (0)
  In Reply to: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 02:49:10:

  Try a Freud Carbide Forstner Bit, they drill nice clean holes
  in wood, MDF and Corian. A FD008 1 1/8" bit would work fine.
  

  • Freud Carbide Forstner Bits

  
  

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• Re: flexiholes - zanash 06:50:37 10/26/01 (0)
  In Reply to: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 02:49:10:

  I agree, thought about puting damping around rod but settled on oversized nylon washers with damping between shelf. I had a radius cut on all the shelve edges [with a router] of about 10 mm, looks the biz.
  had the mdf sealed with a high gloss polyeurathane varnish - now look a golden honey colour with an oatmealy finish - been absolutly smooth.
  Built two -onefor hifianda half hight for TV with rotating standto turn the TV.
  
  

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• Re: flexiholes - darkstar 05:15:02 10/26/01 (0)
  In Reply to: flexiholes posted by Ortem on October 26, 2001 at 02:49:10:

  I went 1/8" over and it was perfect.

  Measure twice, drill once.
  

  r
  
  

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