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I'm creating some jumpers right now. If I crimp the spades, should I also flow solder into the front end of the spade to prohibit oxidation? The rear of the spade is where the wire is crimped in. Or is oxidation not an issue and/or adding solder makes it sound worse?
Follow Ups:
Crimp for sonics.
Adhesive lined heatshrink to prevent oxidation.
If you are concerned about crimping, try this....
DDD
OR? you could solder directly at the crossover and ignore Jumpers and the 'spare' input terminals.. entirely.
That is actually the best way to do it.
Just consider the need to reverse it if you ever plan to sell the speakers.
IF you have the proper crimping tools to be used, then crimp only, otherwise, soldering the exposed portion of the wires will just heat the wires and spades, loosening the crimp and the solder joint won't be very good, because a mostly good crimp will keep the solder from flowing into the crimp portion of the joint.
If you are going to crimp, do it right, if you are going to solder, do not try to crimp, leave the spade legs open and solder the wire while it is wrapped around the spade lug central spine, and then trim excess wire and then gently bend the spade legs over.
With a good crimp. you can cover with HS or even the adhesive lined HS if you can find the teflon based type. Just don't over heat the crimp joint area.
Jon Risch
Unfortunately, traditional crimping tools do not work well with cables that are comprised of 2 or even more varying gauge wires such as in many Audioquest or similar cables.
Solder them. I'm not sure why some demand crimping only, and this is why not:
I always crimp them tight enough to not damage key hand/wrist usage, and then solder. Heat the joint after crimping then flow the solder.
I made a big mistake just ONCE crimping the piss out of connections and ef'd up my hand to the point of not being able to lift things even though my fingers worked fine. It was quite painful for months until it healed from not using it for anything heavy duty.
Just my hard learned advice to anyone because IT'S NOT WORTH IT.
I always found that crimping sounds better....
I always do it. I've seen too many problems in the past OVER TIME which is the main concern when it come to oxidation. I've seen green ox inside on some crimp only connections and some have gone bad to the point of falling apart - and of course it all would depend on the relative humidity levels and atmospheric conditions. Rosin flux is harmless. Oxidation which spreads is not.
You would need a machine press to crimp them with a force greater than the human hand. And if you try to do it by hand you may do damage to your hand joints - and that is totally without worth in this case. Carpal Tunnel hurts quite a lot and leaves you miserable.
Solder them up after weighing the facts or solder one channel and leave the other undone if curious to see what happens in your setup.
Belt and suspenders. A gas tight termination with appropriate insulation after should be your goal.
It sucks to get old. It really sucks to get old and bitter.
I recommend leaving solder out of the situation, since with a "partial solder joint" the flux may flow into the wire/connector interface within the connector and affect conductivity, which is not a good thing. If you are concerned about oxidation, use some heat shrink to seal the termination points. Just make sure to use a heavy-duty crimping tool for the task, and apply severe pressure for a gas-free termination, greg7.
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