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In Reply to: RE: That has been my experience posted by email@example.com on May 10, 2017 at 10:46:53
Endlessly repeating, "But why? But why?"
Again, not doubting your experience in the least, nor Acme's. I'm simply thinking that Bussmann or Littelfuse would say, "If changing to a ceramic fuse, use a 0.5A higher rating than with a glass fuse" if it's a characteristic of the design.
And if any of you decide to call either of the above mentioned companies to ask them, please also ask them which version sounds better. Oh, and please record the conversation. I'd love to listen to that one!
Another fellow at DIYaudio had the same experience.
I did have a higher rated ceramic fuse (either 0.25 or 0.5 A greater) and it does fine.
My first thought would have to do with heating. I am guessing air has less heating "stiction" than the ceramic, just enough to keep the thing alive. No question, if there was a long term heating question I would tend to think the ceramic body would offer more long term cooling than glass if that was a real concern.
One would think the stability added by the ceramic body would be an advantage. For some reason I have never opened one up so I do not know whether the wire is in intimate contact with the ceramic or is just as unsupported as the wire in the glass tube? In that case there would not be much of a difference if any at all.
One would think that the amount of air surrounding the wire could make a difference. No question there is a good distance between the wire and the glass case with "standard" resistors.
Could there be a quality of capacitance factor in fuse design?
I suspect most of us at one time have listened to a component without a fuse. I have not done it in decades. But I remember there was a difference. It is very frustrating.
It may be the silica in the ceramic fuses causing the element to more poorly dissipate the heat generated at turn on.
I've never tried any of my equipment with the fuse bypassed, so I guess I don't know what I'm missing.
at turn-on or otherwise, is what makes for the rating of the fuse. If a ceramic fuse blows at some current draw below its rating, then it would need to be re-rated, if the UL had anything to say about it. Which is the question, when it comes to boutique fuses.
If you read my original post, it has been the experience of Mike from Acme Audio Labs that standard, UL rated ceramic fuses of the same rating as their glass counterparts tend to open sooner than the glass variety. Rick then posted that some guy over on DIYaudio had a similar experience.
I was trying to wrap my mind around that, because honestly, it still doesn't make any sense to me, which was the reason for my post.
It's not only odd, it's against "the law". Sorry for misunderstanding your reference points.
I figured you just missed my point, and that's OK, 'cause the whole subject is rather confusing.
"Suddenly, I'm not half the man I used to be. 'Cause now I'm an amputee" J. Lennon
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