Audio Asylum Thread Printer
Get a view of an entire thread on one page
|For Sale Ads|
I find the few times I've needed it, the wick worked great. I just place it over the solder, and put the iron on the wick, solder just goes right into the wick when the solder melts.
Now if my soldering abilities were as good as my wicking, I might actually try to build something. It's funny, I used to be pretty good with a solder iron, but the older I get, the worse I get.
That's cause us old farts forget to turn them on first!
Anyway, thanks for the solder wick vote. I feel the wick would be easier than the pump.
Note that all wick is not created equal. Best is Chemwick but it has to be fresh. It should come in a plastic wrapper. Once open, keep it in a Ziplock when not in use, ans squish as much air out as possible.
Hakko makes some good desoldering stations. however, believe it or not, if you are good with wick it is easier on one sided boards. A device with a pump is better on two sided boards, especially when plated through holes. On such boards, once you see the solder melt, wait a few more seconds to make sure it is melted all the way through the hole or you won't be able to get the other side. even adding solder results in an air pocket and to clear that you have to literally flood the joint with solder to make it drip from the top.
Also get some 63/37 leaded solder and if you ever see the PBF or anything says lead free solder or ROHS compliant, add some leaded solder to the joint and cook it in before attempting to desolder. This applies to all methods including wick.
is that Chem-Wik Lite has flux imbedded in the braid. I do have 63/37 solder, so your advice about lead free solder joints is much appreciated. I am printing all this out.
Post a Followup:
Post a Message!
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: