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In Reply to: RE: Cardas CCBP Unplated Copper Binding Posts posted by Jonesy on January 18, 2017 at 17:27:39
The superior conductivity of pure copper, including thermal heat conductivity and the energy storage capacity of copper is quite different than a brass connector, where the heat is better localized during the heat transfer process in order to quickly form a robust solder joint. I wonder if a high-mass copper binding-post were mounted on an aluminum heat sink, if the quick thermal conductivity of aluminum with its thermal dissipating storage characteristic might help transfer excess heat in a similar manner as an unused rca jack on the back of a VCR or such as recommended for cable terminations with Bullet Plugs, WBT NextGen, and KLE low-mass rca connectors. Either situation has to do with thermal dissipation.
Edits: 01/18/17Follow Ups:
That makes sense and has given me an idea for some upcoming work I have to do. One of the nice things about the Cardas is that you can unscrew the tops all the way off. I wonder if replacing the caps with a row of aluminum nuts would also help dissipate the heat while soldering. Can't hurt to try.
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
I wonder if replacing the caps with a row of aluminum nuts would also help dissipate the heat while soldering.
It might well. That would, I'd have thought, make it inadvisable to try. Would it not be better to mount the post in some form of insulation (such as a scrap of medium-to-heavy PVC cable sleeving) so the heat is kept local and the joint made quickly?
Can't hurt to try.
Hopefully not but I've damaged things (many years ago, you understand) by taking too long to make the joint.
D
I learned my lesson years ago. Without them, soldering takes much less time.
I'd be interested in your experience with the aluminum nuts....'ya nevah know.
I can't remember for sure, but I think I have the long rather than the short version Cardas. So the soldering point is further away from the teflon. This would affect the scenario somewhat versus the short version shown in Duster's original post.Thinking ahead further, the longer would also let me add extra aluminum nuts to both sides of the barrel for soldering. Then remove the nuts before soldering the other end of the wire.
Thank you Duster for the OP and for explanations that help us put logic into practice.
Cheers!
Jonesy
Edit: I still have and use WBT silver solder with lead. Lower melting point.
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
Edits: 01/19/17
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