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What are your thoughts on 2W resistors? In place of a Welwyn wirewound for cathode resistor, would you expect any better sound from:1. Tantalum, e.g. Shinkoh, Audionote
2. Dueland types
3. Mundorf Supreme
4. Mills 5W wirewound
5. Ohmite Audio Gold
Edits: 11/13/16Follow Ups:
Hi Salectric,
I have tried AN tatulum which gave a very strong distinct sound which i would say extremely natural, especially vocals compared to any other resistor up to the naked vishays whether in the signal or psu. It reminds more the Duelund cast capacitor signature.
It however, lacks (for me) that hifi "air", deep bass and snap and detail.
Are the silver leaded ones much improved in this respect?
Thanks
Sorry for the delay. I just saw your post. I agree with you that the older magnetic AN tantalum resistors were a bit lacking in "air" and "snap." I would not say they lacked detail or deep bass, at least the 2w tantalums didn't. However, the new Silver 2w tantalums are significantly better than the older version in pretty much all respects. The Silvers have more HF extension which gives them more "air" and a faster sound. The bass is not as heavy and thick as the old 2w magnetics so the Silvers overall have a more neutral tonal balance. In addition, the Silvers have more inner detail and more subtle microdynamics than the old 2w magnetic tantalums. All in all, the Silvers are really special. I haven't found a spot yet where I didn't prefer the Silver to whatever I was using there before.
Unfortunately I can't say the same thing about the other Audio Note non-magnetic tantalums. I have tried several values in each of the sizes (.5w, 1w and 2w) and none of them has remained in my system. The new non-magnetics do have a more neutral tonal balance than the old magnetics but the new models all have a glaze or glare in the upper midrange and low treble. The coloration is very obvious with a new resistor and definitely gets better as it is used, but there is always a trace of it even after many hours. The Silver resistors, once broken in, do not have this problem.
Hi Salectric,
Thank you for further sharing your experiences.
I am certain there will be a special sounding treat adding these.
I am not sure if it is the tantulum resistive element but knew there is a special very unique sound to be had for to even the old AN tants, but needed blend to reduce the shortfalls in certain frequencies and that overly creamy texture.
But may wait for the smaller 1 watt version. So far the naked vishays do sound excellent for me in most of the frequency range, except that vocals were wanting and a little on the sonically light side.
Have a great new year ahead!
The new Audio Note Silver Tantalums came out a year ago, and they are now my top choice for a neutral tonal balance, excellent detail and transparency, and excellent micro-dynamics. The only downside other than price is they take 100 hours or more to reach their full potential. Now carried by PartsConnexion.
The other new Audio Note resistors, the non-magnetic tantalums, are also very nice, but for a 2w I would pay a little more and get the silver.
The leads, I would guess.
The end caps and leads are made of silver. I saw a video somewhere in which some Audio Note engineers described the difficulties in bonding the silver end caps to the substrate. There was apparently a lot of R&D (trial and error) before they came up with the right combination.
for forty dollars a pop.
Tantalums do have their own 'good' sound. But please remember that
tantalum is a semiconductor.
I likw to use metal foil but it may be necessary to parallel them for 5W.
I may need 5W to keep the cathode resistor at a decent temperature here - the current is continuous since it's also the filament supply in filament bias. Gets hot.
I'll have to remain very curious about the tantalums - I'll have to find another place to use them.
In that case, I would use 12w Mills wirewound. Having recently replaced a Mills with an Audio Note Silver, I know the Silver sounds significantly better but if you need a bigger wattage the Mills is the only choice IMO.
I like parallel resistors better than singles.
Use the same value, though.
Have you tried the TEPCO resistors? Try those paralleled.
Parallel resistors offer the possibility of combining different types. No end to the permutations there.....
nt
Absolutely the most transparent of all, and very nearly zero inductance. Many different values come in a variety of ratings and are reasonably priced, available for $5 from any decent electronic supply house such as Mouser. Parts Connexion also sells them, at a bit of a premium. If you need only two watt rating, you won't need a heatsink, but it probably wouldn't hurt to use one (they clip on and need no support other than the resistor's leads), also available from PC and Mouser for a couple bucks.
The leads are short for mounting in PC boards, but you can solder on little pigtails if needed. The leads are not delicate, but neither are they as robust as wirewound types. They sound more accurate than any of those exotics, almost all of which I have tried, all of which color the sound no matter what they claim.
Peace,
Tom E
berate is 8 and benign is 9
Tom,
I can't speak for Andy but I can say what I heard when I tried the Caddock MP caps in my speaker crossovers (at your suggestion). To my ears, the Caddocks added an artificial sheen to the upper midrange and low treble, and they were too lean in the lower midrange/upper bass, i.e. they removed warmth. They weren't offensive but they were also not a contender in my opinion. That said, there is no denying they are a good value considering the very reasonable price.
Sorry if I steered you in the wrong direction. Maybe my old ears/system are/is not as sensitive to an upper range sheen or perhaps I even appreciate compensation for some hearing loss. At least you can say you tried them.I am not ready to shell out for AN silver tants, although I bought a pair of their new non-mag regular tants to use in my active xovers. I have recently gotten new midrange drivers and I'm about to build the newly designed passive crossovers. I've already purchased Caddocks, but I'm willing to try others. I thought Mills were pretty blah and the Duelund's were too bright. I actually liked the cheaper Mundorf MOX. I have never tried the expensive Mundorf's. I think their caps, although very detailed and open, tilt the FR upward to hi-fi levels, almost as you describe the Caddock. I use their SIO for tweeter caps.
Peace,
Tom E
berate is 8 and benign is 9
Edits: 11/17/16
Tom, I don't regret trying the Caddocks so don't have any concerns about "steering" me in their direction. One of the great things about these forums is being able to hear of other persons' experiences and perspectives. We all learn from each other.
I tried thick film and didn't like them at all. Maybe I should try them again....
Their transparency might not be effective in every circuit. Can you elaborate just a bit about what you didn't like "at all"?
Peace,
Tom E
berate is 8 and benign is 9
Would never pay the price for a Dueland resistor. That said, I would go 2W Mills if you've got room (they are big) or tantalum, but I am not at all sure that you can get a 2W tantalum. Biggest I know about for sure is 1W. Use two 1W tants of equal value in parallel, if you need 2W dissipation.
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