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I have had this in now for almost a week. So far the outlet has opened up nd was a little on the bright side at first but now has a more fuller/thicker sound with more depth and wider soundstage than when I first put it in.
The outlet has now a more less stressed/no harsh sound to it with nice texture on snare drums and very good separation of instruments. Plus I can hear the different tones of horns, guitars, and basses. Just a nice match with the Neotech Rhodium cables I made.
If this needs another 100hrs to reach it's peak, I can just only imagine what it will sound like then. I'm glad I took the chance and tried this outlet.
I will give a final update next week.
Thank You to everyone for suggesting this outlet. Too bad I never got the cover to try it with this outlet but I'm happy the way it's sounding now.
Follow Ups:
Thanks for the update, Cougar!
I just ordered a GTX-D(R). Hope I like it. :) I've been using a Maestro, and while I like the sound, after no more than a year the thing doesn't have enough grip left to hold the plug in securely. I'll concede that it's had a lot of plugging and unplugging (we get a lot of boisterous thunderstorms here in the spring/summer, and I pull the plug when a bad one is looming), but still, I'm not real happy it only lasted as long as it did. Hope the Furutech does better. I plan on cooking it on the AudioDharma for a couple weeks before I install it and get at least some of the break-in done.
The Furutech GTX-D NCF(R) AC outlet is an excellent partner to install along with an Oyaide R-1 within a power line conditioner/distributor configuration. The distinct sonic signatures of these two premium AC outlet designs provide a complementary mix & match potential, of which when mated with various AC plugs, power cords, and audio component configurations provide an effective contrast between two differing presentations. In my case, I prefer the Oyaide R-1 for my power amplifier, while the Furutech GTX-D NCF(R) is preferable for my preamplifier. Combining the two presentations can offer the best of both worlds, in my experience. YMMV
Thanks Duster. I'm getting the regular rhodium outlet, sans the nano treatment. Kind of lucked into it -- the dealer was out of the gold that I originally wanted, and offered to send the (regular) rhodium for the same price. Had a hard time deciding between the gold and the rhodium based on the descriptions I've read. I don't need the warmth of the gold, but was concerned the rhodium might add some hardness or fatigue that I certainly don't want. Time will tell. I'll just be happy to have an outlet that the power cord doesn't fall out of. :)
I have been using Cardas Rhodium RCA connectors for years in my system and haven't had any harshness or brightness. The AC plugs I have installed are Rhodium as well and sound great. The only time I got concerned with brightness is when I installed the Oyaide R1 outlet. That made the system sound bright but not harsh in the beginning. After a day of breakin they started to calm down and had slight fuller sound to them. After almost a week of breakin they didn't nothing like in the beginning are sounding very nice now.With the Furutech FI-11M (G) AC & IEC plugs it was like a slightly dull sound at first with the cables opening up sounding more clear after a few days of break in.
My system has a tube preamp, Tube DAC, SS phono preamp, SS power amp, and SS CD player.
Edits: 09/01/16
Thanks Cougar. I don't have anything rhodium plated right now (cords or cables) that I know of, so this will be a new experience. I've been a traditional copper/gold kinda guy all along (never heard anything made out of silver that I can stand), so I have high hopes for the rhodium.
My dislike for rhodium plating goes back over 17 years, from Hubbell to Oyaide to Furutech. I always found it very forward in presentation, with little or no depth of soundstage....the music started and ended right at the speakers. This was confirmed again more recently in auditioning some very fine power cables from overseas....they used Furutech FI-11M-N1(R) connectors.
On the other hand, I never experienced brightness or top end exaggeration....just the overly-forward presentation. And oddly, I've not read anyone else's comments on this forwardness over many a year....
Has not been good either with stranded or solid core wire. Just closed in and lacking. The Hubbell HBL 8215C connectors were way better.
So what works for one person may not work well for others. The Neotech cables and ac plugs are very nice and work very well in my system. Also it may depend on what type of system you have be it tube or SS.
Everyone I've talked to (regarding the new NCF connectors & NCF wall duplex) has told me that there is no forwardness to the presentation, regardless of the rhodium plating....and they were familiar with that forward characteristic in the past, though not on everything they'd listened to.
The NCF connectors & wall duplex may set a new standard for high-performance....we'll see. I need to install my NCF duplex soon and compare it to the R-1. This new technology does come at a higher price, unfortunately....but I do understand the cost of materials and superior build quality, something that Oyaide understood over a decade ago, raising that bar for everyone else.
but with a little more depth than before. You can just hearing all the little details in the background that you either couldn't before or were just very faint.
I know the soundstage will change again once I get the new power cord and connectors for my VTA-120 tube amp. Seems like every extra component that is tube gets a little more deeper in soundstage but I don't want it too deep like I'm in a back row. Chris Brady mention something like that with his all tube system.
With the 2 way horns will be building this will not be the case. :)
Alan, my experience with (non-NCF) Rhodium plated AC connectors was the same as yours. A couple months ago I tried some NCF Rhodium IEC inlets on my amps in place of the Furutech Gold inlets I was using previously. My initial reactions were positive, but after making some other changes to the system recently I decided to try the Gold inlets again. I am now back to Gold inlets all the way! To my ears they are better balanced tonally and they have more refined mids and treble than the NCF Rhodium. Of course, the type of IEC connector on the power cord makes a big difference, so perhaps someone using a different connector might reach a different conclusion. My power cords use Audio Note ISIS copper wire and have Furutech FI-11 Silver IEC plugs and FI-11M Copper AC plugs.
I fully agree that a silver Furutech FI-11(Ag) IEC connector sounds better when mated with a gold Furutech IEC inlet.
I got the idea of using those particular Furutech connectors from you, so thanks for the recommendation. It makes an especially synergistic match with the Audio Note ISIS mains cable.
Hi Salectric,
Finding audiophile synergy can be difficult since listening to an audio device is a far more complex experience than say the synergy of mixing & matching colors involved in industrial or artistic applications. You can have multitudes of color swatches to choose from, while mixing & matching audio devices can only be determined by putting rubber to the road, and going though what some folks might consider tedious investments, installations, modifications, and further evaluations they simply don't have the time, funds, dedicated interest, or endless evaluations to endure. I have looked at the process from a different angle -- I do it for my own creative, intellectual, aesthetic, and social purposes rather than settling for less within my audiophile hobby.
Cheers, Duster
If you are interested in a killer-app AC outlet/AC connector combo, the Furutech FI-50M Gold AC plug along with an FI-50 Gold IEC connector mated with a rhodium Furutech GTX-D(R) AC outlet is a stellar match, to my ear. Very vivid; helps toss-up a large soundstage presentation, with a similar synergy to that of the classic Oyaide SWO-XXX/Oyaide P/C-079 AC outlet/AC connectors combo, IME.
Good to know...thanks. I'm using a Zu Event cord in that spot right now with connectors that are custom made by (or for) Zu (I have the version 1 cord with connectors like the Mother). Not even sure how to take them apart without messing something up -- must be some kind of press fit, as taking the screws out does nothing.I've never done a DIY power cord, but have been thinking about it. The design in the link below looks pretty interesting -- ever seen it (or similar to it)? With the synergy of the Furu connectors and some nice Neotech wire, it could be a fun project.
Edits: 08/31/16
IME, Zu filled their AC connector shells with potting compound, which can be rather difficult to remove from an AC power cord connector termination area, and does nothing good from a sonic perspective, IMO.
As for the mentioned bulk power cord cables, I have experience of both the DH Labs Power Plus and Furutech FP-3TS20, and would not suggest either of them. The DH Labs Power Plus features a very fine stand count conductor, with frequency peaks in the upper-bass and lower-treble, with a characteristically softened image solidity and leading edge. The Furutech FP-3TS20 was a downright difficult power cord to find satisfactory AC connector synergy with until it was terminated with Oyaide P/C-046 AC connectors mated with a gold Oyaide SWO-GX AC outlet, which is acceptable but not optimum, to my ear (now doing duty in a second system).
As for the mentioned AC connectors, silver plated AC connectors are problematic, IME. They can be used to custom tune an audio system by reducing overly-warm sounding tonal bloom, but tend to sound too lean and dry for my taste when compared to other plating schemes that tend to provide a more liquid sounding, streamlined sonic signature without loss of musicality, to my ear. YMMV
Thanks again, Duster. The depth of your experience with this is impressive, and I appreciate you sharing it.
Is there a reasonably priced copper wire you'd suggest in lieu of the DH Labs and Furu 3TS20?
Also, I'm afraid the Furutech FI-50's are a bit more than my wallet is comfortable with. Do you have any experience with the FI-11's, and if so, how much is lost with the less expensive connector in comparison? I could probably convince myself to go for the FI-28's if there's a significant difference...
Thanks!
The Acoustic Revive Power Standard-tripleC 8800 bulk power cable when terminated with Furutech gold FI-11M(G) AC plug and gold FI-11(G) IEC connector is what I consider a moderately-priced high-performance DIY build. It should be a very good match for use with your rhodium Furutech GTX-D(R) AC outlet, since the sonic signature of the Acoustic Revive 8800 with gold Furutech AC connectors is on the warmer side of neutral, while the streamlined tonality and vividness of the rhodium GTX-D(R) should counteract excess warmth, IME. The particular DIY build will also require plenty of burn-in time in order to decrease undesirable warmth and congestion, and increase the sense of speed and transparency. Installing a rhodium Furutech IEC inlet for the audio component it's placed on would be advisable if further streamlining of the overall tonality is desired.
See link:
Thanks again Duster.
The wall outlet feeds a Furutech e-TP60 into which everything else is plugged. The outlets in the TP60 appear to be FPX(G)'s, and the IEC inlet socket is gold plated. I haven't ever opened it up, but looks easy enough to get into so there's lots of tuning opportunity in replacing either the IEC with a rhodium plated one or changing the outlets themselves.
Greatly appreciate the input and advice!
Bill....you can also Cook the Furutech TP-60....it's easy.
Alan,
The TP60 has over 3k hours on it. Would there be some benefit to cooking it at this point?
Absolutely. You will be VERY surprised at the results.
Cooking the TP60 will also allow you to re-condition a couple of power cables at the same time, since those need a "recharge" as well.
One power cable would be installed into the IEC inlet of the TP60 (with the wall plug adaptor from the upper left set of binding posts) and the other power cable would be installed from one of the duplexes into the IEC adaptor of the Cooker, and then into the lower right set of binding posts. I recommend conditioning the furthermost duplex (from the IEC) first....then work yourself towards the TP60's IEC in succession. That way you're getting all the length of the internal wiring from the start. Call me if you have any particular questions....I can guide you in real time.
I would give each duplex a couple of days of conditioning. Put it back in your system, then let it draw current for a couple of days, allowing things to settle in before you do any serious listening again. Let us know the results!
OK, I'll give it a try during the work week when I normally don't have much time to listen to music. I assume my Model T vintage Cooker is up to the task? :)
Yes....it should be fine. The green LED might act a little differently due to the increased resistance (and mass) of the contacts within the duplexes, plus the two power cables, just so you are aware. Besides continuity, the green LED displays the pattern of the frequency sweep, which can alter slightly depending on that mass.
For instance, the pattern might look a little different when conditioning large caps, versus a group of power cables, or a daisy-chain of interconnects....the conductor mass is different. Nothing to worry about. It's a reactance issue.
RadioWonder:
Thank you for the pictures of your adaptors to condition multiple outlets at the same time. I have now ordered the materials to do make male to male jumpers to condition five outlets at the same time and have the ability to use the Ground Breaker adaptor so that the ground connection is also conditioned.
I am very impressed with the results of conditioning a Synergistic Research Tesla Plex outlet for six days. There was a significant improvement in an outlet that already had hundreds of hours of use.
The uses and benefits of the AudioDharma Cable Cooker continues to grow.
David Pritchard
Mr. Cowen....6 or 7 days on the Cooker should do it, depending on which version you own. Then a couple of days of settling in with regular current draw. Let me know how it goes....
Edits: 08/29/16
Thanks Alan. Good to know. First time I've cooked an outlet.
I have the original version. Can't remember exactly when I got it, but it has to be 13 or 14 years ago. It's cooked a LOT of cables over the years, and still works perfectly. A testament to good build quality, for sure. My usual routine has been about 5 days for power cords and speaker cables, and 3 days for interconnects. Real scientific timing, I know, but to my ears has been the sweet spot with the unit I have. I figured the longer the better for an outlet (can't really "overcook" it), so appreciate your advice on the duration!
Bill
Hey, Bill....if you're still using the original 2.0 version, it will be 16 years old in December! I looked up your invoice. Extremely happy it's still going strong. :--}
Your "routine" as far as conditioning times is spot-on. With some variance for wire gauge and amount of dielectric materials, your conditioning times are very close to the general guidelines on my FAQ page. The greater the wire gauge & amount of dielectric material, the more Cooking a cable will need.
While I don't think that a full two weeks is necessary for a duplex, it couldn't hurt it, as the materials will need to settle in regardless. A brand-new unit, with the improved circuitry and Extended Frequency Sweep, would do a better job overall, but that's another discussion.
Wow, so that particular Cooker is from December 2000? That's even older than ours, which is from 2003. Again, one of my biggest regrets is that the Cooker was not yet invented, when I started out in cable madness in the late-80s and early-90s. On occasion, some audiophile will send me a wire/cable from as far back as the 60s. But as far as high-end audio cables, we do receive a few from the early-90s. It turns out that, without the Cooker, we were only getting maybe 25% of what each cable was capable of. IOW, those cables weren't as bad, inaccurate, or colored as we previously had thought or assumed.Anyway, our Cooker has been in pretty much constant use, throughout its 13-year lifetime. From throwaway patchcords to car-priced models, this Cooker has treated hundreds of thousands of dollars of products and bulk wire. Now we are on to Ethernet cables, such as the AudioQuest Forest RJ/E, above.
I'm not in the business of taking away anyone's pleasure. However, even if one is happy with his untreated cables, he'd be multiple times happier, if he'd Cook his wares.
-Lummy The Loch Monster
Edits: 08/30/16 08/30/16
If only I could get my wife to cook that much for that long, all would be right with the world. :)
Alan,
You have a FAQ page? I don't remember one 16 years ago. :)
Seriously, it's hard to believe it's been that long. Guess I need to see what's new in cooking land, huh?
Alan:
Can you give us non technical types instructions on how to exactly hook up a wall outlet to your Cable Cooker. I use the 2.5 version.
All the best and hope to see you at RMAF.
David Pritchard
Hi, David....to condition a duplex outlet on the Cable Cooker, one would simply require a second 15-amp IEC adaptor (part of the power cable adaptor set).One IEC adaptor would install into the upper left set of binding posts, and the other IEC adaptor would install info the lower right set....similar to the setup for conditioning power cables, excepting you'd be using two IEC adaptors.
For the duplex, you would connect a power cable's wall plug into the top receptacle of the duplex, and a second power cable's wall plug into the bottom receptacle. The respective IEC ends of the power cables would be connected to the two IEC adaptors, which are in turn installed into the proper binding post sets of the Cable Cooker. It's really easy.
Radio Wonder's set up is a little more sophisticated, as he fashioned his own adaptors for this purpose, but he's been doing this quite successfully for years.
With my special adaptor setup (for daisy-chaining multiple duplexes), I've been conditioning 4, 6, 8....even a dozen duplexes simultaneously for many years.
I should also add that, with this installation of two IEC adaptors, you also get to condition (or re-condition) two power cables at the same time. Very convenient.
Edits: 08/30/16
Figures I'd make things more complicated than necessary.
But on the plus side, you know all those power cords that come in a component's box and are immediately tossed to the side in favor of macho audiophile power cords? I finally found a use for them. :)
Very good idea, Bill, and an excellent use for those generic cables.
I went in that different direction since I was conditioning multiple units on a frequent basis (for sale).
I now am able to condition the ground contacts (within the duplex and AC connectors) via a newer product called the Ground Breaker. It's a more sophisticated (and engineered) set of power cable break-in adaptors.
I used spare male AC plugs and UPOCC Wire to make Outlet Jumpers...
Hopefully the photo of my Cable Cooker explains any questions you have...
I use the "audiodharma GROUND BREAKER POWER CABLE ADAPTOR SET" with my Cable Cooker now and all my AC Outlet Adapters are "3Wire" to include the Ground on the outlet'''My set is a Pre-Production model...
Edits: 08/31/16
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