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In Reply to: RE: Also concerned about in-rush current posted by dcuhl on August 06, 2016 at 12:47:06
Your low-current preamplifier and CD player should not be any problem to power-on together. You did not mention your power amplifier, which would be the only component to consider in terms of high-current in-rush. That said, I've never found cause to be concerned about simultaneous power-on of high-current components and low-current components within a system.
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The Odyssey Extreme SE Mono blocks are on their own dedicated 20 amp line and seem quite content that way.
The reason for the X-2 capacitor and 120 ohm resistor, to come full circle, is that I have a Furutech GTX-D Rhodium that will be going into the system and the caps and resist. will be added to that. A third dedicated 20 amp line to feed the GTX-D and one of the front end components will be on that 3rd line, separating the digital from the analog. Which one gets the GTX-D remains to be heard. I plan on hard-wiring the transformer in and removing one of the two Oyaide R-0's, the second one is currently powering the aforementioned mono-blocks. I also have some experimenting to do with the transformer. The Topaz is constructed using the transformer itself, as the center with two mirror-imaged front and back half attachments and 3 bolts running thru the thirds to connect all three parts. Those front and rear housings are hollow cast aluminum and the strong fields contained their-in/or not, may or may not effect the AC line feeding the transformer on the supply side and those same stray fields my also effect the AC outlet supplying the component(s) attached, contained or not, on the 120 volt outlet side. What to do inside the hollow part of the housings is where the experimentation lies. I've got several differing materials that I can create shields from and the experiment(s) should prove educational. Thanks again.
Treating the inside of the isolation transformer should be a worthy task. I look forward to reading your findings in the forum. I recommend placing the isolation transformer on a vibration control platform spiked to the floor, with a compliant footer like Herbie's Audio Lab Tenderfoot feet positioned between the bottom of the isolation transformer and the top of the platform. I found a similar configuration to be very beneficial when used under a Tripp Lite PLC for my computer workstation.
The transformer is currently resting on the floor under the cd player. I have made an amalgamation of differing feet combinations. I am at this point using bronze colored elevator bolts which are 1 1/4" wide at the bottom and are 5/16" thread and 2" tall, flat side on the floor, followed by a 3/16" thick leather washer - 1 1/4" in diameter followed by a 1 and 1/8" diameter 7/16" tall piece of ebony, followed by a 1 1/4" diameter stainless steel washer on which the weight of the transformer rests. On top, a brass washer followed by a bronze colored washer/nut combo. The color thing just happened to work out. I had the same assembly, shorter bolt and without the ebony, sitting on an 1 1/2" thick koa wood cutting board with thin rubber feet under the koa wood. Bass regions are better articulated without the wood cutting board and slightly more impactful as well. I want to remove the stainless washer and add brass there instead, because I think that it, the stainless steel washer, maybe reflecting vibrations from the transformer, back at the transformer and not in a good way, just because its the hardest part of the assembly. I also want to try that combo, on the board and put that whole assembly on top of three older Daruma II Final roller block assemblies that I have sitting around. I do have, but have not tried, 2 differing stiffness versions of silicon pad feet to be placed between the elevator bolts and the floor or koa wood board. I'd also like to try just using Mapleshade Audio brass heavyfeet tapped at 5/16" as the transformer is pretty heavy, 40+ lbs. and I don't want it falling off its perch, so to speak. The silicone pads/feet were an earlier suggestion by you, so thanks again for that. Its all a bit time consuming but quite educational. Working with ebony is a pain in the ass without a drill press and don't bother using precision wood bits, you'll dull them, bits designed for metal, work more effectively. Like I said educational, with a bit of irritation thrown in, as the results were not as precise as I would like. Sorry for the length, but details make it so.
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