|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
68.8.172.230
In Reply to: RE: High Definition Links posted by Tweaker456 on July 27, 2016 at 10:38:56
Maybe you should put those caps back in you took out of your DAC. These caps are there for a reason and to remove them just because what you have read or you think it sounds better is not a good idea. You need to have some way to see the signal to see if it's a clean or oscillating signal. I have mentioned this to you in past threads about having a scope and to see what is going on with the changes you are doing.
Also you may be having oscillation from those I.C.s due to what you have done to that DAC.. Hiss is a good indication there is Oscillation somewhere in that DAC.
Try this, put those output caps back in and see if that hiss goes away. Some times the load of the circuit follow the output of the DAC (without those caps) can cause the circuit to oscillate. Also, try to barrow a scope to see what is going on.
You have done so much to this DAC, if you're not satisfied still then maybe it's time to look at another DAC or look else where in your setup.
Just trying to help you out! let use know your results!
Follow Ups:
It's a common idea, especially here, that most audio products are poorly engineered and built to cost. Hence the reason for all these expensive upgrade components that are in many cases the same cheap part with a fancy skin applied - notably audiophile capacitors.
But if you believe that, then why would a cost cutting manufacture add coupling capacitors if they were not needed? I mean even the cheapest caps cost pennies not to mention the added board manufacturing costs.
Doesn't make much sense does it? This equipment is cheaply designed yet they add parts that serve no purpose?
Hmmm
Gusser,in this case one channel has .3mv and the other channel had 12mv. I think this is way below what one needs to worry about going to an amp even if the amp does not have input dc blocking amps but there are others out there who can correct this if incorrect. But, in fact my amp has input caps to block dc so there is no need for two sets of caps. The improvement in sound quality without the output caps, which were way way better than the crap that came with the unit, is dramatic. I believe the output dc blocking caps are put in out of an abundance of caution to prevent a problem in all situations. Hornblower is a good point person on this subject. T
Edits: 07/27/16
Is it possible that in your zeal to use the most robust possible parts, in terms of voltage and power ratings, that you've stuffed some physically over-sized parts into the chassis, especially capacitors, such that you then had to run much longer than original length leads from the new parts to the PCB or wherever they are supposed to connect? If so, this creates an antenna for RF, every time you do it. And hiss can result. I don't know who wrote that "hiss" is by definition a 3KHz noise (as you mentioned), but that is not far off the range where it might lie. You obviously cannot filter that out without losing a lot of music, which defeats your whole purpose in tweaking. I suggest you go back to the drawing board and take a look at whether you have some long leads in the circuit that are picking up stuff and amplifying it. And IF you still wish to install a filter, it had better be an RC type, not just a C, in this frequency range. Otherwise, your amplifier will be looking at a dead short at frequencies above cut-off. But fix the core problem is my recommendation. Then you won't need no stinkin' filter.
Lew, the system is quiet when there is no cd. T
nt
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: