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In Reply to: Re: All Oyaide.... posted by michaelv20850 on May 11, 2007 at 17:14:39:
If you're using solid-core wiring, there is only so much you can tighten the screw/plate against the wire without stripping the screw head. "Very snug" is how I would describe the sense of this. If the inserted wire has no movement or play, you are good to go.Considering the price issue, personal preference is all in these matters, just as it is regarding the sonics of each model. Both brands are of very high-quality. Some feel the Oyaide have better overall QC. What matters is what *you* feel, and/or enjoy the most.
Follow Ups:
Oyaide's single screw per polarity method eliminates the removable bridge that split duplex capable AC outlets feature. A split duplex capable AC outlet's bridge enables the two sockets to be electrically divided in order to connect separate AC wirings such as one socket wired for your audio system, and the other socket wired to a switch at the wall to turn a lamp on and off (switchable outlet). An unsubstantial electrical bridge of this type is bad enough, furthermore, it’s scored to be easily bent-off (for a split duplex configuration), and as such is considered by some folks (and I concur) to degrade the performance of the bridged socket, so Oyaide actually designed a superior audio/video AC outlet when two component's power cords are plugged into an Oyaide duplex AC outlet (both sockets connected to a common line).
On split duplex outlets I make it a point to jumper over the two duplexes. Usual NEMA codes have four insertion holes for wiring on the back. I stagger the input hot and neutral, and then use the adjacent holes to jumper over the stock skinny bridge. I find that using the split duplex in this manner will give greater cross sectional area of the connection between the two duplex outlets.Bridging the duplex does make a sonic difference in my experience.
Stu
Stu....could you further describe how you "stagger the input", and how you "jumper over the stock skinny bridge"? I unfortunately am not able to visualize your technique.
In the case of most North American made duplex outlets (at least the better ones), you have two attachment points per leg, each directly screwed into one duplex and each having two holes (4 total per side, I like the NEMA 5362 style outlets).Since on each side, you have four wire inputs, one pair going to each respective outlet, I cut a piece of wire, say about 2 inched long, bend into a U shape and insert into the middle two inputs. This effectively jumpers over the two duplex outlets, paralleling the clippable bridge that is stock.
Now, I have observed that if you insert the power cables, hot and neutral, into one duplex receptacle, say the lower one, that outlet seems a bit more dynamic than the upper one. The situation is akin to a bi wired speaker. If you hook up a single wire speaker cable to the tweeter inputs, the speaker sounds brighter even though the bridge is supposed to neutralize the hook up configuration. Likewise, hooking the single speaker cable to the woofer outputs generates a bit more bass. However, if you hook up the wire's one lead to tweeter and one lead to woofer you get closer to a true bi wired sound. The same applies to a duplex outlet: if you stagger the leads to each receptacle, the result is more evenly spread throughout the pair.
There is still a slight difference, as the direcet hot lead receptacle is a bit brighter, but the two will be much closer in sound.
Hope this helps:
Stu
Thanks for this tip its a good one. I will be implementing this from now on.Ive also noticed this phenomena on speakers with binding posts for each driver used with a single speaker cable and jumpers. The driver whose binding posts get the speaker cable (as opposed to the ones jumpered from this) get a noticeable emphasis.
nt
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