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I am in the military and have attended military soldering schools. I have noticed that there have been a few soldering questions. I thought I would add these tips that will make you connections even better.Never strip your wire with wire strippers. The pull stresses and weakens the wire. We always use a razor blade to cut around the wire to remove the insulation. Do not nick the wire with the blade.
Never pull the solder apart. Always cut. The pull thins the wire, which causes uneven flow.
Always wipe the solder with alcohol before soldering. (dont grip hard and pull!) The oil in your fingers causes impurities in the solder connection.
Never hold the solder in your mouth - Lead poisoning over time.
Don't breath the smoke in.This is more time consuming, but worth it. I Just finished 700 solder points on a Velleman, and a AE3 this way with great results.
I have seen issues concerning the ground connection on the Belden interconnects. I used a miniature butane torch to heat the outside of the connector, periodically flaming the ground itself with precision not to burn the center insulation. Remember the metal and the wire must both be hot enough to melt solder. Screwed one up, but did 4 more successfully. Remember tin the wire!!!
Happy soldering!!!
Happy listening!!!
Steve
Again, let me say my thanks to Steve. I will be doing some soldering soon - for the first time. Before I do the actual real job, I will practice a few connections first. I am inserting new binding posts. Yes, this sounds simple, but then, it is an accomplishment for me. Who knows, I might even like doing this.
Good points! For the record, I pre-clean my SN62 solder with cramolin red and I spool it on a solder dispenser. It's good to get both the grease (human) and the tarnish (from storage) off before soldering. I might take exception to using the razorblade. With an expert, a razorblade might be great, but GOOD wire strippers can cut like a razorblade, yet not nick the wire. There is no reason for stress on the wire itself.
I own a gadget with 2 movable arms. At the end of each arm, there's a clip to hold your wire. So once you secure your wires, you can CONCENTRATE on the joint to be soldered. The lack of movement also makes the soldered joint stronger, esp if you keep the soldered parts secure until they are completely cooled!When I can't use this gadget due to lack of space, I tape the wires to minimize movement! And if the tape doesn't work, I'll try an alligator clip instead, or a combination of tape and a clip.
IMHO, I believe that movement degrades a soldered joint.
Regards,
gariver
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Yes, anything is better then the oil from your skin.
.... which has oil added to it and can cause as much trouble as you're trying to avoid.A couple of other comments:
The "reflow" method often provides good results: Clean all components with alcohol that will be part of the solder joint, including the solder, which should be "eutectic" (63%Sb,37%Pb and some silver if desired). Flux all surfaces to be soldered and "tin" with the solder. Clean the tinned surfaces again with the alcohol and clean the solder tip - this removes the flux residues (mostly burnt flux). Now holding the tinned parts together in the final desired position, apply the tip equally to the parts and the solder will melt and flow evenly between and around the parts. With some practice you will get a really clean, strong joint. Finally clean the finished joint with alcohol again, which is important because flux residues may cause accelerated deterioration of the joint. I find a small, stiff brush works well in applying the alcohol and brushing off the flux residues.
Another factor that lends the greatest integrity to the solder joint is learning how much is just the right amount of solder to use.
As another poster mentioned, soldering is a big subject in which you can spend weeks of training and years of practice. With the advent of the solid state age it became known as "a lost art". In the last 20 years we have experienced a re-enlightenment.
nt
nt
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